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Comments by rurprider (34)


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The last move is an exciting dyno from an underling from a pocket. This is an awesome lead. Bolted by Scott Loomis after exhaustive rehearsal.

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it's bolted because Echo Cliffs is a sport climbing area, not trad and the rules of the real world don't apply.

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Joshua Tree National Park would be the correct location, near 29 Palms and Joshua Tree, CA.

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As previously noted this is "Xanadu" (5.7) in The Grotto, not Easy Street.

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I don't know when this formation received the name Diablo Diamante, but when we 1st climbed here in 1993 it was called Frock Rock and it has 4 routes on it. Commitment Time 5.9 (nw side), Double Trouble 5.10a (south), Debris 5.8 (south), and Jaws 5,11a (east face).

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Sorry, I missed point. What's the connection to rockclimbing, etc?

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This is NOT Spring Crag. Spring Crag is further east on Hwy 2 towards
Wrightwood, about 1/2 mile, on the right (south) beyond the gate where the road is closed.

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A note on the location would be helpful. Although there is no location indicated this is a the Gunks in New York state. The rating is 5.9, but as the ratings are a bit stiff at the Gunks, most climbs not familiar with the area would probably rate Maria Direct ~ 5.10c

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WHAT EXCESS BOLTS? It's a 15-20 ft. runout to the top from the last bolt. Tucker Tech broke both ankles falling off above the last bolt.

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Saw Richard Jensen solo this once. Scary!!

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And what does this have to do with rock climbing and/or restoring the fabled Hetchy Hetchy? It appears to be another vulgar and immature contribution better suited to a bulletin board at the faternity house than Rockclimbing.com. Why wasn't this editing out by the editor?

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Now that's the kind of photo we need to see!! Not someone fantasizing about draining Hetchy Hetchy.

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Hmmm... on the lead "Peer Pressure" seemed a bit harder, say 5.10a, and getting to and clipping the 1st bolt is EXCITING.

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Leader above the crux on "Goldline" (5.6) on the Hyperion Slab at Texas Canyon. "Goldline" consists of 3 short pitches. The crux is well protected, but the rest of the slab is low angle and runout.

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Looks great from the safety of home, but that's 50,000 cfs flowing below, waiting to pull the unsuspecting under that cut bank.

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Looks great from the safety of home, but that's 50,000 cfs flowing below, waiting to pull the unsuspecting under that cut bank.

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GOOD DOG!!! Those dogs love to seek out crash pads, rope tarps, and their owners things, like a security blanket.

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The east face of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab) at Texas Canyon. The bolted route above Cloudbreak is a 5.13b, Brachiation Dance.

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Extreme rappelling? In that case, wouldn't a helmet and a prussik or autoblock backup be advised?

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"Aqua Negro" (5.8) on the east side of The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab) at Texas Canyon. Nice climbing past 4 bolts.

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4 out of 5 stars The Egg (the formation on the left) and The Chicken (aka Hyperion Slab), the large slabby formation on the right. Texas Canyon is the gap between The Egg & The Chicken.

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Isn't this photo reversed? Isn't Nutcraker a right facing corner?

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Go in the summer and the waves aren't so large and the landing is dry. Also, the landing is relatively flat with some indentations and bowls, not anything dangerous, but a pad would be desirable.

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The east face of The Chicken (aka Cave Rock), at Texas Canyon. No fewer than three routes climb this face. A 5.13 climbs out the steepest aspect of the large cave on the left, a 5.11 climbs the light streak, right of the smaller cave, and a 5.10 climbs the right side of the isthmus between the caves. The huge flake/pinnacle that leans on the right edge of The Chicken is the Panhandle.

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1 out of 5 stars Troy Mayr's 2004 Climber's guide to SCal. refers to the formation on the right side of the photo as "The Chicken," not cave rock.

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Very nice description of Texas Canyon by Brian Hershberger. I might add that the largest formation is referred to as "The Chicken" in Troy Mayr's 2004 Climber's guide to SCal.

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Ridiculous, juvenile name. Time to change the name!!

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Very nice shot with the fall colors. Ridiculous route name.

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Nice crack, but feels more like 5.8

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Yeah, right! Just rotate that sucker 90 degrees counterclockwise and you get the real V0.

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And where is the rock? Yo, peeps, what's the relevance to climbing, and/or Scott Rock?

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So when did Oregon State University start hiring a course setter? Ha, Ha, Ha.......lighten up.....it would be helpful if you utilized some descriptive language to let the viewers know that OSU is in Ohio, while you're tooting your own horn.

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Way to go, ilikepargo.

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Wow. Now that bolt is a beauty. The equipper obviously had never heard about mixed metals and galvanic corrosion.