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Comments by socalbolter (282)
one of my favorite sport walls anywhere. if you haven't been and can handle the grades, you won't be disappointed - no matter how far you have to travel.
i like the black and white approach for these shots.
Brings back memories. This is a great route, and this photo only shows some of the good stuff to be found on it. This area has stacks of juggy roofs including others found in the grease cave just down the way. if you're ever in the area, i highly suggest a stop! there's also some prime harder stuff across the way at south central.
yes, it's a bit high. the worst part though can be seen in the bottom of the pic. there is another boulder directly below and behind this problem that would cause a falling climber to bounce back and forth between the two all the way to the deck. the spotter shown in the shot wouldn't do a whole hell of a lot of good until the end of the fall/bounce.
tim, i think you've got your stories mixed up - no rock throwing in this one.
you're right though... very petty.
Stainless shining in all his glory. This sustained route is much thinner than it looks. My vote for the best on the wall.
"Evisceration" is between "Frustration" and "Skinned Alive."
Link of "Skinned Alive" into "Evisceration."
yes, he's wearing socks. he and his partner always do - i can't seem to talk them into losing the socks and gaining some sensitivity (this almost sounds like a condom discussion). and believe it or not, the shoes are mad rocks that have faded out considerably.
roughster - no, but he did "evisceration" fourth or fifth try, i think. he thought it was on the lower end of 13d.
true that you could have placed cams in the horizontals, but the top would still have needed the bolts. since the area is "ultra sport" i wouldn't have expected it not to be fully bolted. i've done this route and as mentioned above, it's amazing and natural. do not miss this your next time there!
i'm pretty sure it's been climbed without the holes at V8 or so. the holes were not installed by climbers. rather the LDS church drilled them when they were quarrying rock for local church buildings. climbers came along after the fact.
check the recent photo submissions for an amazing rendition of this shot, with a different climber on lead.
great shot. nice facial determination!
13b/c . the difficulties ease not far above this shot and are followed by 70 feet of steep slab.
This is the most popular section of cliff, with the most 5.10-5.11 quality routes. if you're climbing harder or off the beaten path a bit you won't have to deal with this.
rating is 14a. one crux a third of the way up, the true crux at mid-height followed by a good shake, finishing up 13a edges.
this route is called "pink flamingo" and is just one of the great routes on this wall.
this is the benchmark 13a at smith.
hey, i recognize that route!
so, looking at the trees in the background i'm guessing it's no where near this steep?
yes, but were you stiff before you saw this?
looks like "driving limitations"
looks like the lines could be a fair bit longer, and like a lot of fun.
looks great, joe! nice find.
what's number one, and what does it do?
nice photo, joe.
is this on "choptop" ?
is this "ejection seat" (link of "narcissist" to "fuel injected") ?
congrats on the redpoint!
very nice shot. a wonderful looking crack.
ah, good old "boomshaka" !!!
11a or b is the grade and it's really good.
i did it when i was out on the 16th.
how hard? which wall?
this photo's somewhat deceiving, as you're looking at the draws of (3) different routes that are about 10 feet apart from each other. this side view makes them all look much closer than they really are.
looks like the "caveman" cave
he's missing the smoke and cut-offs. are you sure he's yours?
one of the best at the crag, and i think one of the better steep 13's in socal. ronnie's not tooting his horn, but he got a very early repeat of this route. congrats!
nice shot. i'd like to see some larger framed shots showing the entire headwall. i bet they'd be pretty good.
look out, here come the "bolts next to a crack" comments!
makes the line look more challenging and steep than i'm sure it is. the black and white does it justice also - i don't think it would be as stunning in color. nice job!
nice perspective of the wall in this shot. i like all the streaks.
nice photo. unfortunately you could never grasp the "headiness" of this route from a picture. this is one of my favorite 12's at smith.
o.k, straight from the horse's mouth:
i'll see if i can comment on everything.
1) i didn't say it was bold, only that the thin hooking got my heart going a bit. my feet are probably only 3 or 4 feet above the last bolt here. bolder than rap-bolting, but still not too terribly bold.
2) yes, this was before the NPS bolting regulations.
3) yes, a talon would have been better, but they didn't exist back then.
4) no "rap photography" here. this was taken with a telephoto lens from a big boulder opposite the route.
5) i hadn't thought about the photo being tilted. the route is less than vertical, although not quite as much as it appears in this shot.
6) this was bolted just after the first bosch drills came out and this was an early "battery off the drill" rig i was trying out. in the big picture curt's right. this is way more "sissy" than the hundreds of bolts i hand drilled in years prior. this hook only had to hold for a few minutes of drilling and bolt placement, rather than roughly 30 minutes of fear.
hope that sums it up. thanks for the comments.
if you follow the area link in the description, you'll see this is in iran.
how hard? looks like fun.
that hook was a little sketchy and i remember this being the most balanced position. not very comfortable, but it worked.
wish this one was longer. good thing there's so many other good routes down there.
it's about 90 feet long and is the shortest route on this section of wall.
judging by the lack of chalk and shoe marks on the wall, this must be a fairly new wall. looks good. enjoy!
there's a bolt off his left hip that you can't see in this photo.
looks a little runout. be careful up there!
beautiful shot - love the colors!
or shinier gear? just kidding, looks like fun.
and to be proud of it enough to post, even worse!
does this go free also? it looks like it might at a high grade. a great looking pitch (aid or free)!
often touted as being the best of it's grade in the US. i've done others as good, but not many. if you have the opportunity to try it, it definitely should not be missed!
very cool features on this boulder.
nice angle. you don't see this usually on shots of churning. how did it feel to hang out up there? hope you had a comfy harness!
this was just after my recovery from a serious lycra addiction. i have plenty of those shots, don't worry!
looks like a great problem. how hard?
any of you who've been to this great crag owe a lot to the subject and photographer for your enjoyment. canon tajo would be far less without their efforts. thank you to you both!
she says she's looking for fun and excitement. surely someone here can help.
looks like sissy. is it?
at least you didn't skimp on size. it looks like it will be good when completed.
i think you're mistaken about which boulder this is. this is quite a bit further upstream from where you used to go and there's still about 8-10 feet of climbing above him. this is the easier of the two throws. the next one comes when matched on the hold where his left hand now is.
Nice shot, Doug!
an update: grahm moved up north and this was made an open project. chris lindner got the FA and confirmed it at 14a. it's still called "dismembered."
rrradam - it was an abandoned project that i did the FA of.
good shot. i remember this and the neighboring, harder line as being pretty cool. i like the roof sequence on "narcosis." it's kind of like a harder version of "top one thommo" in miniature.
"diamond in the rough" ?
if only the sign was clear enough to read. obviously these guys couldn't read it either.
great route. too bad it's not longer.
i really like this shot.
nice and crisp.
i like the way the forest just ends at the wall, with no real clearing, talus or break leading up to it. i'm sure it must be cool when you're approaching through the woods and get your first glimpse of the wall.
6:30am and already multiple parties on the wall. that's my kind of day!
Is this Hanging Judge?
so what's the turtle in the back saying? "Who's your daddy?"
A great route, although I liked the one to the left better. What you can't see in this photo is the sea of ferns along the base of this section of cliff.
looks like the pocket wall. not sure which route.
amazing shot, but i agree - you should PS out a lot of the draws. just leave enough of them to suggest where he's headed. nice pic though. i really love this cave - tons of pumpy fun!
lots of people use PS for DOF, but this is a bit much!
nice chalk bag belt !
frawg - i guess it depends on how many loose rocks might be above you. since this is in a canyon, even a small animal walking on the rim above you could dislodge a death bomb.
for those that haven't been, this wall is highly recommended. long, fun limestone.
i remember days like this with both of my kids and years ago with my dad. "tiptoe" isn't it?
is that the "double cholla ranch" route? just curious.
looks like it would be an awesome free climb.
is your name Atlas?
thanks for posting the recent shots of echo. they look great!
love the cacti in the background!
sounds like someone's been to birthdaychallenge.com
Much better angle than those normally seen of this route.
OK steve, there is that sequence to contend with as well. most folks seem to have a harder time here, though. in my mind both sections are about equal.
I hadn't noticed, but this is also a pretty decent shot to show the route to its right - "Vertigo" 12d/13a. Saw some new faces out there today - Welcome!
congrats robbie !
Yes Adam, this is one of mine.
adam - yes, myself and a few others. it's actually still under development currently, with about 145 routes so far. let me know when you're in town again and i'll give you the tour.
12c to the left of this. 11d to the left of that. A handful of 11's to the right. At 80-85 feet, these are short for the area.
cool holds on this section!
nice photo !
12b just left and then a 10d up the big stuff left of that.
bringmedeath - see all that stuff on the ground? at one time or another it was all on the wall. not that i knocked it all off, but i did add a few tons of new talus to the pile.
the "grains" we removed were a touch bigger than that.
are you sure she's not testing the strength of her sports bra?
Great picture of a nice wall. The one area I wish I could visit more often is the Blue Mountains. Such diversity among the cliffs and soooo much untouched rock. If you haven't been, find the time and $$$ and go soon. The Freezer is just one of many stellar walls.
yes, he did. and i think he's improved since then. he was one of the first "outsiders" to come and check the new developments out about a year and a half ago.
Am I the only one that noticed that the crack to the climber's left has been filled with epoxy or concrete?
Very good 12d (Graffiti Wisdom) to the right. Short and powerful 12b (Punk's Not Dead) to the right of that. Slab City area is downhill to the left from this route.
A long 11a to the right and a good 10c crack to the left. Many good, technical climbs on this section of the crag.
ike - down and to the left.
it may not be heaven, but it's pretty good.
are the routes really that short? seems like a good top rope wall to me.
So is it a piece of branch being used as a chock, or did you cut the branch to allow for the climb?
"Contrived." There I said it. The fisheye on the lens makes the line look deceivingly close, but this variation traverses about 25 feet left (away from the crack) before climbing straight back up to where the crack arches back left at its top. Definitely a variation to the prime line, which in this case is the crack.
Too bad the belayer's looking down or this would be a great shot!
Oh the Glen, what a fun wall. And is that 1914 I see in the background?
healyje: There are only 4 bolts on this. The lower draws you see are on crack gear in the lower portion of the original route. What you can't see in this photo is the big, ramped ledge that rises with this traverse. That's why the four bolts are fairly close. As I said, the fisheye gives some distortion as the traverse is much more diagonal than what it appears. Also, that thin crack is extremely sloping on its bottom half. The last bolt protects the hard deadpoint into it.
Love the angle of the wall. Very nice. Wish I had gone here when I was last over.
no, that was mike nash.
OK, since I actually do read the comments on my photos from time to time: I will repeat what I said above that the wide angle lens used on this shot caused some distortion and makes the crack seem closer than it really is. When you leave the lower crack section, you traverse left (away from the crack) about 15 feet initially and then hand traverse (again diagonally away from the crack) the thin rail shown below the bolts in the photo. As the rail peters out you then climb straight back up on thin crimps, throw to the sloping horizontal and then rejoin the upper portion of the crack. All aid lines freed at the Quarry (that follow cracks) have been lead on gear. This variation to the original gear line could not have been done with trad gear. Again, as stated above, this variation starts with gear in the crack, then clips bolts, then uses gear in the crack once again. As for photo size, unless you have a huge monitor you can't see the whole shot at once if it was posted any larger. Is there another reason to want this bigger?
love the shadows! they make the shot.
looks like he's using it for a toprope.
if you just look at the lower portion of the tree (below the branches), it looks like a face watching the climber (with pointed ears and prominent cheekbones and nose).
I don't know which is scarier, that the nut on the left doesn't even have full bearing on the stud, or the fact that these "anchors" were made in Taiwan.
59+ !!! Damn, that's hard!
No, he's not soloing. He just came over a small bulge and the rope is hidden off his right side. If you look lower on the route you should be able to follow his rope up. It's kind of hard to see, but it's red and it's there.
I think it's more likely that those are suspenders...the height of climbing fashion.
This line has been redpointed by Chris Lindner and is named "Chris Cross." It's 13c.
Further update: The rockfall of this last January buried the hard start of this route. The remaining route is 13c.
Yes, that's his belayer way down there on the ledge.
One of the coolest sport walls i've yet seen in the good old USA. You will never appreciate how big or how steep this wall is until you're standing below it. Randy deserves anything good that comes his way for the work he did here.
leon: get a clue, this is in france and the cliff is much larger than what you see here. don't be so quick to slander.
Most of the developed climbing is on the left side, but there's a big undeveloped cave on the right end that is very steep. Typical Santa Monica Mountains choss, but it's featured. If you're psyched - have at it.
Looks nice. How hard?
Anything on the face at the far left of this shot? Seems perfectly featured for a hard 13 (maybe harder?)?
Congratulations on the onsight.
OK, I'll bite. How can this possibly be "pumpy" ?
"Calm" 12a or so, at Echo Cliffs.
Something about this route looks familiar.
It's called The Trough. Polished, but fun.
Mantle Marathon - 10a.
Trad climbers see the crack. Sport climbers see the arete. Which did you see first when seeing this image?
15 minutes from the car.
5 minutes from the car.
30 minutes from the car.
Looks perfect. Exactly what I like. How hard is this? Name? Nice shot.
I would love to see some go up. Something ought to climb those beautiful faces.
mark - your guess is pretty accurate.
Good old High Sierra granite. The area is full of waterstreaks like this.
original. i like it.
I don't usually do as well on ultra-steep routes, but the holds on this one make it a lot more attainable. Wonderful shot. 10!
i like it as an outline. filled in it might be too much. if an artist messes up the outline, then it's time to make it solid. this looks good as is.
Extend both side walls until they meet in the corner. If you want to eliminate the stemming options (somewhat) that this would allow for, frame an upside-down triangle (point down) in the corner. Either of these would allow for a smoother transition and more steep climbing.
A beautiful crack that ends on a perfect ledge a rope length from the ground. While this photo is nice, it doesn't really do the route justice.
That "feature" is deceiving. It's about 10-12" wide and flared. The climbing in that section is pretty easy (for the grade) and you run it out to a bolt at the end of the feature.
Too bad about the lighting. This would be amazing otherwise. Still nice like this though.
I like it too, but find the preplaced gear above him distracting. Not because it's preplaced - rather because it seems to be more of the focal point. Nice perspective on the route though.
one of the most unique owl tor shots i've seen. steve told me about this route. guess i'll need to come up and check it out.
I think this has got to be the most beautiful wall in the Red.
Are the any free routes here?
Looks like an old Salathe or original Chouinard ring angle piton.
The hanger looks like a first generation Leeper.
The 28 pitch comes higher on the route. And yes, were they successful?
Best route on the wall. Nice shot!
looks like something on the warm-up wall. maybe "lyme disease"?
reminds me of the good old days when the renegade goldfish and carp had turned into giants and could be seen swimming around in the water.
Just the way it looks. Matt's about 50-60 feet off the belay at this point.
here come the "crack" comments. looks like a fun pitch.
After seeing this in person last week, I think there's going to be a lot of strong SLO climbers in the future.
finally, a shot that shows this from a different angle. Thanks!
Best route on the wall in my opinion.
I see the cheat stone pile is higher, having replaced the ugly fixed rope ladder. A big improvement in my mind.
That's a loaded question, but I would suggest getting some stronger bolts.
One and the same.
Is that a cupcake in his hand?
Tom, this is my favorite of the shots you took of Grahm. Thanks for sharing it. This great route is filled with jugs, but as you can see from this shot the moves from hold to hold are pretty powerful. Believe it or not, this is the easiest path out the main roof.
just under the roof
Aw, the good old days...exciting finish onthis one.
Looks like a great route. Get ready for the "bolt" comments. I'm sure they'll be coming along before too many comments.
Outside of Fresno.
Is this by Narcosis?
One of the nicer sport routes in So Cal. Props to Jeff Willis for first envisioning this line and for showing me the crag.
sorry, but she's too good for you.
Amazing area that anyone traveling through Wyoming should make the time to check out. This wall alone would make the trip worthwhile.
Here come the comments... but I wouldn't think twice about clipping them. I would guess that route's a fair bit harder if you don't know how to jam. Looks like a great route. Nice shot.
As the original commenter on this shot, let me clarify that I have no problem with the bolts. I was only predicting the inevitable future comments to follow (accurately so I might add). The Gorge is full of awesome routes like this. Bolts or no bolts the routes are still amazing. And let me second the kudos to Tony and the rest of the committed Bishop locals. The area's climbing options would be less without their immense efforts.
The sit start begins down and left and follows the thin fingertip rail before doing this move.
So where is it? The rock appearance and route name tell me it might be up near Williamson somewhere?
Looks like someone ought to try freeing this. Or has it already gone free? Beautiful corner!
If you're ever in the area, this is a great crag. And if you are up for doing some responsible bolting, there is room for many more lines on the cliff.
I don't know, I think that he can't expect much better if he's going to be a trad climber. We all know that the sport climbers get all the hot chicks!
Looks beautiful. Nice to see that Ronnie's still pulling on the steep stuff.
Ditto dalai's comment. That thing looks amazing!
If you've never been here, you park at the end of a small road and walk behind a few houses (literally) and down into a small greenbelt area. Too bad the top of the wall is always wet and dirty. Even at that, it's some of the coolest steep sloper climbing you're likely to ever find, especially since it's basically in someone's backyard.
Nope. What you see is the real deal.
What you're seeing here is late evening sun glowing on the rock.
Crash Landing on The Faulty Tower
OK Sanjaya, why are you really smiling. Be honest, you just caught a glimpse of the K-Y in the photog's pocket didn't you? A real man would just jump.
This is a great route and should be on any crack climber's grovel list. The gear is not as bad as you might imagine. There are also a handful of good multi-pitch trad climbs at the mouth of the canyon and a good 10a dihedral crack right of this. Good sport climbing in the canyon also.
Deluxe floor covering. I guess no one tries anything they might fall on?
Dave is one of the "locals," even if he lives 26 hours away. This and Slow Poke (just right of this) are great additions. Thanks Dave!
Yes, she ended up getting the FA.
So now we're taking gear advice from a boulderer? JK Curt, seeing this brings back memories. Remember PECK's and Forrest T-tons? I may still have a few somewhere in the garage.
I'm glad to see more of this.
It's entertaining, especially when well done as this one is.
The climber's shadow seems a bit too large and the belayer needs a shadow, but otherwise this is great.
Please do more.
OK, Dave is leaving much of the story out. I had never met him before and was looking forward to meeting some of the locals at the annual Cinco de Homestead gathering. Matt (seen here on belay duty) and I were climbing over on the other end of the cliff band and walked by this section of wall on our way back to the car at the end of the day. We came across Dave and this newly bolted route. After introducing ourselves and chatting for a while, he graciously offered me the FA of his new line. Only one problem, Matt and I had left our rope over where we planned to start the next day and Dave's lead line was back in the car. Dave had a crusty static line that he had used to bolt the route and so I led it on that. Between not wanting to find out what it felt like to take a lead fall onto a static line, and not wanting to blow the onsight, I managed to figure out the sustained moves on this route and do Dave's gift justice by clipping the anchors. He also bolted another line left of this one that he proceeded to give the FA away of on the next day to someone else. Thanks Dave!
I like the ladder
It probably would have been better to break it.
Quick healing to you!
Glad to see you guys are going straight up and not out to the big hole. This is the way I originally did it as I really liked the boulder problem on the arete. I was afraid everyone would be going over to the hole after I saw the next few ascents do that. Congrats to Bob on the RP!
Very linear quality.
Would have been better if she was more colorful with her clothes, but i realize you had no control over that.
Anytime, but the hot months of Summer.
Are those bolt-on holds on the face to the left?
Best route on the wall!
This pitch is 200 feet long and requires a whole "hula skirt" of draws.
rap anchors at 100 feet allow for two rappels with a doubled 60-meter rope.
I recognize that route. Nice shot!
Good luck on the redpoint!
By the way, it's called Sunshine Daydream.
I'll have to get on this one next time up. Looks like you guys found another keeper!
Only wish I could see what he was looking at. Nice shot though of what looks to be a hard match. I like the little spots of yellow lichen here and there - they match his shirt perfectly.
I don't remember the year. Early to mid 90's though I think.
We were listening to a Funk CD that day by George Clinton and his group, Parliament; specifically a song called Atomic Dog. We just changed the name of the song a bit to make it more "climbing specific." Thanks for sharing the photo - it brings back some good memories.
Nice shot. I sometimes miss this crag. Thanks for posting.
Glad to know this one has not completely fallen apart.
looks almost religious
Right of Bandito about thirty feet.
Pretty brave showing the come-along in action.
Many more routes to come from this new cave?
Looks too tall to be High Hat, but it might be.
what you can't see here is the big vert wall to the left. nice photo - thanks for posting.
Hanging out in space on another rope.
I like how the grooves in the boulder are duplicated in the mountain in the right hand rear. Great shot.
Hey, I know that kid...
Oh, and a great shot!
One of my proudest sends. JB not only made the ethical statement he was hoping to at the time, but also left behind an amazing route.
If you aspire to send it, spend some time in Tuolumne (there are many better protected routes on the same face) getting used to the rock and the knobs. Once you do that you should be OK as long as you're comfortable at this grade. There are plenty of hold options and good feet.
For the history alone (although the climbing is great in and of itself) this should be on anyone's lifetime tick list.
Looks like Headwound. Fun route.
One of my favorite routes out there. Congrats to Leah, who continues to tick off the testpieces one by one. Nice shot Andre.
Nice Job Chris, as always.
Left arete of two on Red Sail - Grampians, Australia
great route - nice perspective.
One of many great routes on the wall. Seemed OK to me at 11d, maybe solid for that grade, but no harder (although some call it 12a). Not runout at all, especially by Tuolumne standards. A little bit less than vertical so I guess it qualifies as a slab. Shipoopi is the nickname of the climber (Steve Schneider) that did the FA. Lastly this and the other Simon Carter shots were submitted as part of a photo essay / profile of this great photog. I don't think he actively participates in the site. Most of the time I like to see everything linked, but in this instance it's not too hard to find the route in question. It's on Medlicott Dome (along with a bunch of other standout routes).
The body length below her is a finger crack, the rest is steep face climbing.
I don't think the route tags are big enough. You should say something to the gym manager about that.
Mad Rock - Super Locos
Happy Patty's day O'Malley.
Like the colors. Any more "over the water" problems at this hole?
Very clean work. How much more is there to it?
What's the meaning behind it?
I want to say Dedo Flaco, but I know that's probably not right. Too many years have passed since bolting those routes.
Glad to see that people are still enjoying the area.
Looks nice, but i can't tell much with this small of a pic.
cool effect - i like it.
Never seen anything like this. Why is it necessary?
Get well Basti !
Happy people make me smile.
Always looked at this line and thought it too blank. Nice to know that there were enough features at the breaks to make it linkable. Good luck on the send...
Saw the thumbnail and thought NOWRA. This route reminds me of its big brothers in the Grease Cave.
Such a fun route...
best of the bunch
Julian Bautista recently did this from the lower start and is calling it V10 or V11. Congrats Julian!
It was removed intentionally as it was starting to get really loose. The route is now a little more sustained in that section, but remains the same grade.
According to the new guidebook, this is called Crank Call and is 14a.
Dave will routinely set routes there and then give others the chance to lead the FA. Hence, her onsighting of the FA. Sometimes things are as they read...
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Monday, November 23 2015
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