Rock Climbing Photos : Comments
Comments by vegastradguy (249)
aint that part of the climb a b*tch? you're supposed to climb the face to the left of the chimney, but its 5.7R, so many (like myself) stick to the chimney. when my second came up it, the party behind her passed over her head, dragging their ropes over her, giving her considerable trouble following the pitch.
looks bomber for a downward pull. it looks like it might pop out with little upward pull. if it is constricted in front of the nut, that certainly helps. like mac, i would have probably chosen one size smaller to really sink it into that bottleneck. however, as long as a decent sling is on it (and it looks like there is), it should be fine.
dred- see the crack right above the climbers? it arches up and right and hits the roof about 40' from the right edge. from there, a horizontal traverse right takes you to the mandatory 5.7 free move and belay (the little splotch of color directly right of the edge of the roof). all that said, thats a really great shot of the roof...really the only one i've seen that really shows how big it is!
lol, it was 4 of us (2 parties of two) and we were all rappelling together. each person had two points of contact- one on each bolt. full hanging belays, so we were each weighting our contact points fully- no confusion on who was who, although this particular anchor was turned out so crowded, we just had to take a picture!
biff- its not 10", its 10x the diameter of the bolt- those look fine at a glance, although the two right most bolts could be a bit further apart. i wouldnt call the two silver bolts new, though- if they are new....well, someone needs a lesson on modern bolting methods. before rapping on it, though, i'd definitely check the cords condition where it runs through the center bolt- and if i had a quicklink on me, i'd re-tie the cord- i'm shocked no one has done that yet- seems like a simple thing to do that would both extend the life of the cord and make the whole thing safer. other than the lack of a quicklink on the center bolt- i'd rap on it. i'd even belay off it, but i'd feel better if i had a stance to go with that anchor!
josh- slightly smaller than a C4- the cam angle is 13.75 (same as friends). feeling them, they feel like smaller versions than the corresponding C4 (i.e., the gold is slightly smaller than a #2 BD- and probably wouldnt cover wide hands as well, instead it'd be more like tight hands to perfect hands).






Damn, Pete, that's hard core.