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Comments by vegastradguy (264)
Damn, Pete, that's hard core.
That's a fun route. I love the kneebar you get right before the crux!
That's a fun route! Good job!
it is 12b. nice climbin!
Rest in Peace, Andria...
um, it's dike...not...good lord....
as he looks down and goes, 'Oh crap, Adam's right!' another note: what the heck is he holding on to and/or standing on?
stellar. absolutely stellar.
So THAT's why I can't climb .13b....
OMG! I wanna do that!
good lord, ain't that gully just about a b*tch of a descent? took us 4 hours to climb Solar, 8 1/2 to get down it!
fun climb, isnt it? i really need to climb that one again sometime...i dropped my sunglasses off that pitch the 1st time i climbed it. doh!
aint that part of the climb a b*tch? you're supposed to climb the face to the left of the chimney, but its 5.7R, so many (like myself) stick to the chimney. when my second came up it, the party behind her passed over her head, dragging their ropes over her, giving her considerable trouble following the pitch.
actually, solar slab is on the LEFT of this shot. its the obvious giant slab. heh. anyway, this is Oak Creek Canyon, Solar Slab sits on the South face of Rainbow Mountain. nice picture, btw- loving the colors!
every time i see a picture of this climb i have this weird conflicting reaction to both climb it and throw up. if i ever find myself in the gunks, tho, i'm sure i'll be on it one way or another...
yes, extremely large family jewels....good god man....
whoah, that's an interesting way to climb...completely horizontal!!! and you make it look so easy! :)
whoah, took me a minute to find the climber. nice reach, but it would be nicer if we could see ya.
*gasp* are those cams on Hillary's harness???? :)
that's pitch 4 of moonlight. goes 5.12d free, C1 on aid.
backstep! backstep!!! good lord, its a chimney, not a face climb!!!!
Yup, that particular piton is still there. You have to love piton in sandstone....makes you feel all warm and fuzzy....
I really loved that pitch. Orange TCU's and Purple Camalots for 200'. Take a set of nuts for pro and you're set!
first trad lead also a FA? nice....
see, just when you think you've seen it all...a guy gets bored, strips down, and slacklines across a glacier.
interesting...how does it work for pro in between the lobe sizes? that is, what do you do when you need the size right when the large lobes are halfway through retraction? i wanna see this thing in person...looks really interesting.
excellent pic. just bagged my flash of that route. definitely 9+!
Yeah, I finally went back and freed the route. It's one of the best 5.9's I've climbed...not that I've climbed that many! btw- that's Kate (holdplease2) up and to my left.
that was my 1st trad lead in Josh. Hardest 5.4 i've ever done...
eh..legs are for wussies anyway! :)
Zion NP is in southwest Utah. Very beautiful. I got to lead that pitch when we climbed it! Scary and fun!
nice. did he fall at the crux? if he didnt, then i'm even more amazed! good job for 8 months of climbin!
put this photo in the right section. Black Corridor is in the 2nd pullout, not Calico Basin.
hey, get out of my campsite! lol....we had that campsite last time we were there. i love that you can boulder and use your tent as a crashpad!
Last time I checked, the crux on this climb is about 400' above you....although that pitch is an awkward one....
what route is this? Original Route?
is that route as good as it photographs?
Heavy Spider Karma, 5.6- good job!
didja do the second pitch? that's a fun one....
great looking route....great picture!
actually, the second pitch for us involved me trying and failing the squeeze chimney above belay. that's supposedly where the route goes, but it felt a heck of alot harder than 5.6! we ended up traversing to La Reina and downclimbing....
yeah, i plan on annoying myself on this route if/when i ever manage to climb back east...in the meantime, you can find me suffering out west....
looks bomber for a downward pull. it looks like it might pop out with little upward pull. if it is constricted in front of the nut, that certainly helps. like mac, i would have probably chosen one size smaller to really sink it into that bottleneck. however, as long as a decent sling is on it (and it looks like there is), it should be fine.
excellent pic w/ an excellent caption!
that's a gorgeous .10a! i wanna climb that!
amazing! where in Utah is this?
yeah, i fell off that problem. i fall off alot of boulder problems. its sort of sad, really....
yeah, i really liked Horton Creek while i was there last year...this is one of the reasons why. nice shot!
and with a squeegee no less! things i had forgotten! :)
this is what i looked like BEFORE i learned the meaning of the word....DARK.
always wear glasses while aid climbing. dont want to lose an eye when you're bounce testing.
nice job Kate....you look VERY excited to be there!
that's a great pitch...i had the pleasure of climbing that route a couple of weeks ago. wish i had a camera!
dude, you are a brave man to even drive into Zion in this heat, let alone climb anything! escape the desert! good luck in the Valley!
good lord. make me glad i'm a free climber. course, evil Kate has planted the aid virus in me. hopefully it'll remain dormant for a few more years!
yeah, its a great route. wish i had known about the...'slappy' top-out. god bless JTree!
thats not water. that's snow. Kate likes to annoy herself by climbing in Zion during the winter. she especially enjoys climbing routes that require crossing the river! :)
yeah, but since i'm scarier looking, my scared face is much spookier. :)
dred- see the crack right above the climbers? it arches up and right and hits the roof about 40' from the right edge. from there, a horizontal traverse right takes you to the mandatory 5.7 free move and belay (the little splotch of color directly right of the edge of the roof). all that said, thats a really great shot of the roof...really the only one i've seen that really shows how big it is!
nice to know you have an attentive belayer.
damnit. i knew i picked the wrong place to live!
i love these color & b/w shots...very nice.
nah, that route isnt that vert. thats a fun line....good moves up and over a nice little bulge.
lol, if you liked that, wait till you climb somewhere else in RR...Panty Wall has decent climbing, but not great by RR standards!
awesome. and its only Pitch 3 (or 4, depending)!
things i want to do! thats beautiful!
woo! i loved that pitch. some happy climbin, there!
for those interested- the downclimb (instead of rappelling) is to the right of this, up and over the ridge. it's trivial and there 'might' be one 5th class move, but its faster and less time consuming than the rappel.
for group therapy, go back down the hill for 15', make a left and walk along the path until theres rock in your way. climb up this rock, then make a hook to your left. theres a huge chimney there. the south wall is the start of Group Therapy. The chimney is Healy's Haunted House.
that makes them look MUCH smaller than they really are.....
well, now i know that i'm going to do on my rest days next year! excellent!!! :)
hey! where's your helmet!!!! naughty!!!!
um...you should really reload this photo in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak. As it is, you've placed it in Pine Creek Canyon, Mescalito...which is a few miles north of where this photo was taken.
how cool is that? nifty!
what a sweet looking crack! must climb that when i find my way there!
everytime i see a pic of Epi, half of me goes- *shudder* and the other half berates me for not having climbed it yet.
lol...dude, that had to be interesting to watch!
whatcha doin aid climbing without a helmet?
pfft, whatever, man...you're the idiot without the brain bucket.
i can only hope that he built his anchor in the crack behind him (on the right)...that's where i built mine.
the good news is the ledge he's on is like 20' from where he is to the drop off, maybe further. its huge.
it's the tunnel. people think its cool. if you wanna climb a classic at the 5.7 grade, step right 200' and climb Group Therapy.
sorry, sorry....didnt mean to be mean. i really was just askin a question...didnt expect the response!
gee, i should have looked to my right when i climbed that this summer. oh well. good send, thats a nice climb...good for practicing stopper placements!
that's so sad...makes me want to ship you a boulder or two! :)
that's the trango alpine equalizer. havent ever seen one in real life, always wondered how it works....
so thats what that climb is called!
it's called (wait for it....) Big Chimney. lol!
jesus, kate.... :)
great pic, Kate....
thats a beautiful line. makes me want to go there!
yeah, i had that site last time i was there. i loved having that route in my 'backyard!'
i love grants crack...thats one of my favorite short 5.9 climbs in the valley!
you also happened to snap a great shot of Touchstone across the way. great pic!
great shot....if it was bigger, it'd be my wallpaper!
half dorm, eh? hrm...that looks alot like Half Dome to me....
neat photo- course, the rock could do without the 'nametag'.....
i just clipped the bolt on the 2nd pitch and am placing the #4 camalot for the crux move. the photographer was standing at the top of the 1st pitch.
nah, we were TR'ing the route---that cams just a directional. thankfully, all the cams made it back into my backpack at the end of the day! nice job, Matt!
nice pic- really gives a sense of how big the route really is.
you mean free soloing?
wow, that looks scary from that vantage! i must be crazy!
hey, congrats! the first time outside can be both scary and fun! good to see another climber join the ranks!
did you have to put this in Pine Creek Canyon?
this is a great pic of this route-- thanks for sharing it...also- like Ragged Edges and Lotta Balls, this route is one of those not to be missed 5.8's in Red Rocks...
wow, thats beautiful...i love that you can find areas like this in RR, perfect rock, isolated...nice pic!
i like how i can see the crux of Group Therapy in the background...great shot!
its a giant corner which she's almost at the top of. the bottom right of the photo is where the sun is hitting the rock....i wish i was strong enough to get on that route!
yeah, if it was about 100' taller, it would be. its a great climb, though, even if it is too short...
why are you climbing in the rain in Red Rocks?
actually, that picture was taken from Oak Creek, not Pine Creek (the picture is of Mt. Wilson, btw). From the look of it, you were most likely on Solar Slab or a nearby route....
every picture of this climb i've seen makes it look incredibly steep...which, it isnt. Nice shot, though...
oh man, those socks RULE!!!!
it's called Spectrum, a .11ish route left of the Brass wall...i believe this is the start of the .10a traverse that gives the route its 'R' rating.
what else could you possibly need? thats more gear than some big walls require!
someone like me- who curses his way up the entire route...and barely manages not to fall! great route, though...
i love watching people lieback perfect hand cracks... :)
this is really the best way to climb JV- the regular route is boring at best- this at least provides 15'-20' of somewhat interesting climbing!
now thats my kind of climbing!
.11d/.12a, i believe....
yup, welcome to tunnelvision. there's usually a 'P' in chalk on the wall to point out the only pro placement on the pitch- which you found...
ah, you did the easy variation- that is, easier, but run out. if you go high to the bolt, then do the traverse, its harder, but theres pro. nice job!
I doubt he's belaying...its a walk through there. Nice shot, gives a good idea of what the topography is like on the 'walk' between the buttress and the Arete proper on Resolution Arete. The topo gives the impression that its a flat walk, which it's not...
i stand corrected! i'm amazed at the traffic Res Arete (and Mt Wilson in general) is getting these days. Seems like its getting more popular as the years go by!
the 5.8 on this one is to ward off beginning 5.8 leaders- this should not be your first 5.8 trad lead. for those comfortable at the grade, the climb is a pleasant affair.
my favorite part of driving past the calico hills on a sunny spring day is watching *that* guy take the requisite whip off the top of the Gift....
always nice to see joanne, helmet askew, just loving the day!
i like this pic because it actually gives you an idea of how steep those routes are...nice pic.
huh, i was there today and didnt see a soul. course, it's june and we were out there at 6am....
good to know you have an attentive belayer/spotter for those trickey moves!
i see they let the kids off the short bus one stop too soon...
bored, were we? and all that just to hang a cooler!
you used a bro there? nice job. most folks get by with a #4, but that's definitely a rare spot in Red Rock that would take a solid bro.
well, that part of the wall is about 700'. The main Black Velvet wall that lies above what you can see is an additional 400' of technical rock followed by another 1000' of headwall that has yet to be climbed. (Epinephrine is 1800' long and can be seen in the upper right hand corner of the photo).
carl's jr. has playgrounds? sweet!
jesus, that had to have hurt.....
my guess is the Black Corridor- i presume the climber is on the wall across from the belayer? In the future, if you're unsure, feel free to pm the area manager for the state you're climbing in and ask!
do the 5.9 section next time. the bolt protects the single move of 5.9 (committing friction) onto 5.0 terrain. All the stuff before it is 5.7ish, maybe a move of 5.8.
that's a great shot of Straight Shooter....unique too, dont think i've ever seen it from that angle. nice shot.
where on Cat are you....dont recognize that belay...?
that's awesome! married and slacklining- true happiness if i ever saw it!
i think the chockstone is still there- it was last summer when i did the route. nice shot- makes it look so much longer than it is! i really need to go back and back the redpoint on this one!
this was my favorite route of the trip....great climbing on this one! nice pic.
i'd climb with this guy just to watch him climb with that hat.
does it look new?
so thats what that pitch looks like in daylight....
awesome- check the hip belay! yeah!
too bad there is so much damn chalk on the route- otherwise this would be a great shot.
this is a great shot...10!
and just think...sandstone is easy on the hands....
i remember that belay. thats where i first experienced snail-eye.....that dihedral still gives me the chills!
what the fuck is he holding onto?
thats such a cool route....and you're carrying about half as much stuff as i was when i did it! nice!
apparently not- you talked Fran into doing it again? man, its been a year and i'm not sure i'm ready for another go around on those chimneys!
i love how this pitch looks so much harder than the 5.7 that it really is....
actually, scott- this is a shot of Valentine's Day, 5.8ish or so. The other shot is of...bah, cant remember, but its the 5.6 dihedral about 150' east of this climb. regardless, you guys did great on your first climbing road trip! congrats!
no, its Cannibal Crag. the route is called Caustic. good shot- i really liked that route. probably the best sport route i've done in RR (not that i've done that many!)
Actually, this side of the crack is called Big Chimney, an easy chimney problem. The downhill side is Plumbers Crack- the offwidth problem (which is not even in the vicinity of V3).
um, why are you rapping into a hole off of Frigid Air? The std. descent is a bunch of steep to free-hanging rappels to the ground....
this is a wild pitch with huge exposure-- you're 100' right of the dihedral system that you approach by and its just air to the deck when you're doing the crux moves. This route is well worth doing for this pitch alone!
hrm, interesting. not wholesome or mazatlan, or ixtlan....hrm....dunno, but i'm not super familiar with Whiskey Peak, either.
i really liked that route....one of my favorite short .9s in the Valley!
love the shoes!
thats not nemo, that's Stitch!
why do we climb? for moments like that!
and what acherry doesn't tell you is that this fellow had to hang while she onsighted the pitch easily!
man, that move is annoyingly hard- i biffed the onsight as well. i just dont have the length for the jam, have to do the lieback trick to get it without a dyno. curt- usually- kids these days just dont have the cajones to brave the .10c move that high up over the bad landing!
actually, if you start heading upwards quite a bit before you reach this point, its a walk to the base- no scrambling required. this is definitely the hard way to get there....
good lord, is he climbing on rock or chalk? no wonder folks think its a sandbag- all that chalk must make it greasy as hell! (good photo, tho!)
so thats what that pitch looks like during the day! sweet!
nice! i love that route...so much fun!
FYI- within a day of this picture being taken, these bolts were removed and the holes patched thanks to an anonymous member of the community. [url]http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/nasty_rumor_bolts_at_atman/105926687__1[/url]
i just noticed- this is the first chimney pitch, not the top one.
*shudder* i remember that traverse.....
this is a great shot of you two! love the gun- it contrasts nicely with the alchemy jacket!
awww, man...that makes me wanna go back there and climb it again!
jay- nope. the only thing over there would be the upper pitches of Ixtlan, but thats probably 200' left of Triassic. There is a route in between them- Cabo San Looseness....mebbe it has been done, but the rock quality is suspect. Does look climbable, though, doesnt it??
this is a great perspective of this pitch- thanks for sharing! Jay- next time you're in vegas, i'll do this with you, and even let you lead all the 5.10 pitches!
belay off, more like....
in daylight too...i'm impressed! looks like he one-upped the last trio to post pics of their ascent!
this isnt the grand wall....looks like something by the North Gully.
um, thats the Potato Chip boulder in Red Rocks (Kraft Bouders)....
what a great shot of Wilson!
thats great, but how hard is it and why didnt you link directly to it in the database?
thanks! i pondered doing a closeup shot, but i wanted a little of the lower part of the route in there so you could get a sense of how high he is.
every time i see a pic of High E, i cant get over it- how the heck is that thing 5.6?? i really gotta get out to the Gunks!
one of the best .10s i've ever done- a little something for everyone on it!
how could you possibly get shut down on the roof after fighting through the slab? the slab is the hard part!!
this is the first time i've ever seen a shot of a climber climbing this crack straight in. when i led it, i couldnt believe anyone would lieback it- which i saw tons of pics of people doing around Squamish. nice shot!
you never see any pictures of the trunk in people's TR's- nice shot.
cant believe you led it- bold.
the last pitch of the Friar is a freaky lead at the grade- and bold- its essentially a solo....nice pic!
yeah, i know- but it shows the leg loops on the harness.....it was a good route, though- i'd been eyeing it for a while and it was nice to bag the FA on it.
im reviewing the harness- unfortunately, they only had the sport harness, so i had to make due with what i had. normally, i prefer 4 loops, although the loops on the harness were big enough to not be too much of an issue during the review process. see the front page for the review in question.
just to the right of the first pitch of the Solar Slab gully in Red Rocks- its the base of the obvious offwidth crack that shoots up from the top of the 1st pitch of the SS Gully where that route starts to move to the left.
where's this at?
lol, it was 4 of us (2 parties of two) and we were all rappelling together. each person had two points of contact- one on each bolt. full hanging belays, so we were each weighting our contact points fully- no confusion on who was who, although this particular anchor was turned out so crowded, we just had to take a picture!
wow, that makes that pitch look WAY steeper than it is! (its actually the 4th pitch, btw)
nice shot, good to see susanica rocking out in red rock!
hey meow- its easier if you climb the crack......lol!
i remember getting on that thinking it was 5.9. made it much more exciting than i thought it was going to be!
hey hey, even climbing the downhill side. good on ya!
i've never actually seen a picture of that ledge before...good lord. i knew there was a reason i stick to free climbing!
always fun to see someone turn a 5.7 hand crack into a 5.10 lieback!
i love pictures of the gunks. 12' roofs and 5.6 ratings.....
i would have posted a better shot, but he climbed the thing so damn fast, i looked up and he was almost done!
ah, thanks for the name! i spaced it when i went back to the room to write this up. she was awesome to watch!
strong guy- thats a ballsy pitch for a new trad leader! yowsers!
true, but you gotta link the two for the full experience! great shot!
thats one of my favorite parts of the route- BAM! instant exposure!
1st pitch of birdland, looks like.
what, pray tell, are we looking up at?
imho, thats the best 5.10 in the corridor.
biff- its not 10", its 10x the diameter of the bolt- those look fine at a glance, although the two right most bolts could be a bit further apart. i wouldnt call the two silver bolts new, though- if they are new....well, someone needs a lesson on modern bolting methods. before rapping on it, though, i'd definitely check the cords condition where it runs through the center bolt- and if i had a quicklink on me, i'd re-tie the cord- i'm shocked no one has done that yet- seems like a simple thing to do that would both extend the life of the cord and make the whole thing safer. other than the lack of a quicklink on the center bolt- i'd rap on it. i'd even belay off it, but i'd feel better if i had a stance to go with that anchor!
not the gallery....unless its way right, but that doesnt look steep enough.
looks like plastic people, .10ish thing up by stratocaster in the Red Heat gully. great shot!
this photo doesnt really do the cams flexibility justice- you can literally twist it twice all the way around with the lobes held in the cammed position....wild engineering on those things!
such a cool climb- well worth the hike!
interesting shot- never seen it from this angle before. looks much harder!
WHY is this pic not linked to the route?
man, i wish that route was that steep!
holy crap- talk about amazing! imagine what that fall would have been like! yowsers! nice job!
did i miss DOOM again?? dangit!
that is prime technique- demonstrating to the climber the proper pose once he finishes the climb. who knows what could have happened if he had not helped out?
looks like the crux pitch of ginger cracks.
valentine's day- classic 5.8+!
well, i am a local- so i often find myself out in RR! :) looks like you had good fun while you were here!
that top section is only tough because you're pumped out of your mind....the crux is just above the climber unless you've got tiny hands, then i could see the upper part being the tough bit.
i love that this guy can sit and fiddle with pro in the middle of what i considered the crux move of the entire climb!
its a sterling rope...the yellow tag in the middle/right of the photo gives it away. i thought it was photoshopped!
only in the gunks would a climb like that be 5.7.....
A Legend. RIP.
nope- DMM. check the article on the front page.
evan- seriously? check the front page for the OR article....
the point is to provide a good hold (the interior) but limit your options for feet- which can help a routesetter to force moves.
josh- slightly smaller than a C4- the cam angle is 13.75 (same as friends). feeling them, they feel like smaller versions than the corresponding C4 (i.e., the gold is slightly smaller than a #2 BD- and probably wouldnt cover wide hands as well, instead it'd be more like tight hands to perfect hands).
Dude, this is a picture of the new metolius offsets taken at the outdoor retailer show in salt lake city- take a look at the front page for the article. I'd put more text in the description, but I dump 30 photos at a shot....
See day 2's or article on the front page.
ha, i remember that thing! good fun!
such a good climb- and a great first .11 for most folks!
Cilogear- see the article on the front page for more info.
see the OR Winter Market Article on the front page for more info.
please see the article on the front page for more information.
this is a childrens shoe, designed to jump 5 or 6 sizes at a shot. read more in the main OR article.
you have to look close at the original upload- they're just right of the top of the line (right of the short crack right of the main one) and thin.
great shot- wish you had told us what route it is.
Lol, that'd be a chimney, my friend- glad to see you were having fun, tho. I thought the entry into that chimney was super weird, though....
lol, its a squeeze chimney @ that point- sorry, dude- no OW for you on that route! poor burns, getting eaten alive by a squeeze chimney!
good route, but damn it has a scary start!
now if only i knew where this route is at!
this is Torrent, the Jtree Life wunderdog- welcoming us all to ORSM10!
dude, they totally are- it made me cringe to post these shitty pics.
not or, it is racist. its spelled carabiner, which means its 'biner for short.
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Monday, November 23 2015
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