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Photos by dowww

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Sunflower

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Sunflower

2nd pitch of Sunflower, Beulahs Book (5.9) to Sunflower (5.9), 8 pitches, Red Rocks, March, 2008
Submitted by: dowww on 2008-03-11
Views: 1118 | Comments: 0
Experts Choice, III, WI 6

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Experts Choice, III, WI 6

Center line, first pitch, Experts Choice, Waterton NP, Canadian Rockies, January, 2008
Submitted by: dowww on 2008-01-31
Views: 816 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Buckingham Route, IV, 5.10, Snowpatch Spire

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Buckingham Route, IV, 5.10, Snowpatch Spire

Rapping the Route, August, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-08-22
Views: 1935 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
Mount Sir Donald

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Mount Sir Donald

Northwest Ridge, III, 5.4, Mount Sir Donald, Selkirks, British Columbia, August, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-08-04
Views: 976 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
East Ridge, Mount Temple, IV, 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 East Ridge, Mount Temple, IV, 5.7

Finishing the East Ridge of Mount Temple via the North Glacier, one of the North American 50 Classic Routes.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-07-30
Views: 1006 | Comments: 0
Hex #11 Saves the Day...

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Hex #11 Saves the Day...

Rappel back to the 1st pitch station and rappel to ground from there using double 50m ropes as a minimum. We had a single 60m rope, as per the guide book suggestion, and it does not do the rappel. I left a #11 hex 10 meters from the ground. I had to rap over a significant arch knowing the rope did not reach the ground and not knowing what options I would have to place gear. Luckily I found a nasty flaring crack that I just got by with (photo). Wagassa, 5.8, 3 Pitches, West End, Snow Canyon, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-22
Views: 1686 | Comments: 0
Wagassa

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Wagassa

2nd Pitch- (50’) 5.8/ As with the first pitch, this is a longer pitch than stated in the guide book. Traverse out left to a bolt that is kind of hard to see at first. Work straight up vertical on real positive varnish holds to the 2nd bolt. This route is not climbed that often, so use caution and check the holds for fractures, etc. Once you hit that 2nd bolt, start an angled traverse back right through yet another bolt. It is a little run out but you can clove hitch some larger acmes if concerned. Then it is quite run out from the 3rd bolt to the anchor. Wagassa, 5.8, 3 Pitches, West End, Snow Canyon, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-22
Views: 894 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
Wooden Hammer

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Wooden Hammer

A dirty route that rarely gets climbed. Some real precarious varnish you must rely on to pull yourself out of two separate chimneys that are fractured. Horned owls use the upper chimney as their dining room, tons of skeletal remains of rodents, etc. The first pitch starts out with two bolts and then the rest of the route is trad. There are two distinct chimneys, make your way through the first one by protecting really deep with large gear and then having to come out onto suspect holds to reach the next chimney. The 2nd chimney is a squeeze play up to suspect holds again to pull yourself up and over onto easier ground. The third pitch can be combined with this second pitch. Once you top out, you can traverse west to a set of chains, about 15 meters. There will be another set of chains half way down on top of an arch. May, 2007, Prophesy Wall
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-15
Views: 1097 | Comments: 0
Conditional Bliss

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Conditional Bliss

Conditional Bliss – 130’- 5.10a/ Shares the same first four bolts of Caging the Zealot and Harbingers, then stay on the wall and follow the left most line. Seemed soft for a 5.10a. Solid varnished edges past 11 bolts to chains. Double 60’s get you to the ground, otherwise, 2 raps with a mid station. Prophesy Wall, St. George, UT, March, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-15
Views: 877 | Votes: 2 | Comment: 1
Harbingers

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Harbingers

Harbingers- 2 Pitches- 5.11b/ Definitly the best route at Prophesy Wall and most challenging. Beautiful solid aręte following a tower up the left side of the middle routes of Prophesy Wall. The first pitch is the same for Conditional Bliss and Caging the Zealot. Then turn left to the base of the tower. Take on an overhanging face just right of the aręte and turn out onto it for easier moves up to the crux final which is a wild move, no feet, back right to the overhanging anchor. 60’ on six bolts. Prophesy Wall, St. George, UT, March, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-15
Views: 720 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
All Decked Out

Average Rating = 3.00/5 All Decked Out

All Decked Out- 5.8/ A sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” is out of date regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a lesson on how not to bolt a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted it straight up since, 9 bolts to anchor. Tiny roof mantle in between. All Decked Out, Prophesy Wall, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-15
Views: 758 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Prophesy Wall, West End

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Prophesy Wall, West End

Shows all of the Sticky Relevation variations. I have done most of the routes on Prophesy Wall and without question, the better rock is at the west end where Sticky Revelations is located. Sticky Revelations, Exodus Variation, Book of Prophesy and All Decked Out can all be mixed and matched to your liking. My recommendation is to always start the route with All Decked Out, a sustained 70’ of 5.8 edging on solid varnish. Todd Goss’s “Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah” is out of date regarding “All Decked Out”. He labeled it R/X and “a lesson on how not to bolt a sport route”. Somebody, probably Todd, has bolted it straight up since, 9 bolts to anchor. Prophesy Wall, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-15
Views: 706 | Comments: 0
Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7

2nd Pitch- (85’) 5.6/ The second pitch is not climbed near as often as the first pitch. In fact the rap/belay station could use reinforcement or be replaced (two rusty hangers/bolts). The ascent is classic however and should not be missed. The ground is steeper than the first pitch as you basically stem up the deep chimney, moving out when it gets too narrow. Focus on either wall’s features versus the many loose blocks stuffing the interior of the chimney. There is a seam or two on the left wall you can protect into and then it is a little run out until you reach a rusty bolt higher up on the left wall. Continue stemming until the walls widen too much to do so. Then move left and back right up precarious sandstone, again, looking to fully weight only the wall features you discover here and there. Protect into a seam to the left and move back right to finish the last part of the chimney below a rusted station on the left wall. Weeping Rock, Zion National Park, May, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-11
Views: 1280 | Comments: 0
Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7

Weeping Rock Chimney, 5.7/ 185’- Weeping Rock Chimney is a delightful training corner/chimney. I took a fellow SPer on her first ever trad multi pitch up this route. The first pitch does not get much better, perfect crack to place gear on the left while slinging a tree to the right. Continue up a ramp that rides into the shaded chimney. As it steepens, you end up with two cracks on either side of the ramp. Place all the gear you want, switch to the right crack until you reach a webbing anchor on bolts on the right wall of the chimney. The is a very comfortable spot to bring up the second and set up your belay for the next pitch. The 2nd pitch is a classic chimney squeeze where you actually have to move out into space to find enough room to proceed upward in the chimney. It is quite dirty as most appear to climb the first pitch only. There are some loose blocks you want to avoid, but plenty of other features to utilize. Half way up is a rusted bolt/hanger on the left wall no doubt placed as most pro at that point is into large loose blocks. Continue playing the walls back and forth until you hit a rusty bolted station on the left wall. Again, this belay provides a super platform in which to bring up the 2nd. The whole chimney provides total and complete shade making for a very comfortable climb even on hot days. Rap the route.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-11
Views: 1159 | Comments: 0
Ashtar Command, 5.8

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Ashtar Command, 5.8

The Second Pitch up Ashtar Command Route, Ashtar Tower, Zion National Park, 2005
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-11
Views: 1247 | Comment: 1
Tails of Flails, 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Tails of Flails, 5.9

Tails of Flails, 5.9/ 100’- Excellent fun overhanging crack lead. Start up chimney to jamming thin hand to finger crack with good gear placements up black dihedral to chains. Continue past three bolts (5.10a) to another anchor (130’ total) if you don’t mind two raps or have double ropes. Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, March, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-11
Views: 1248 | Comment: 1
Cave Route, 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Cave Route, 5.7

Cave Route, 5.7- I guess this common route was used in one of my favorite movies and what many consider the first real climbing movie, “The Eiger Sanction”. This route ascends the obvious right-facing corner on the far left side of the wall. Off width to hand and fist crack to the cave above and bolt belay. Can use your #4 BD on the lower section. Despite what the Falcon Guide suggests, you can rap the route. Cerberus Gendarme, Zion National Park, March, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-11
Views: 1597 | Comments: 2
Crimson Chrysalis

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Crimson Chrysalis

At the base of Crimson Chrysalis, 5.8, Cloud Tower, Juniper Canyon, April, 2007.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-10
Views: 1992 | Comments: 0
Full Metal Jockstrap

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Full Metal Jockstrap

Working Little Nightmare Music which serves as the first pitch (all trad) of Full Metal Jockstrap, 5.9R, 4 Pitches, Island in the Sky, Snow Canyon State Park, April, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-10
Views: 1317 | Comments: 0
Headache

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Headache

Second Pitch - 140’- 5.10a/ Known as the “roof” pitch, the 2nd pitch is the only site of fixed pro on the Headache. One bolt exists quite a ways below the roof. I cannot quite figure out its purpose as you have quite a few opportunities to protect from that point until the roof itself, including protecting right under the roof with a long sling which would be the norm. The pitch starts out tame enough, not near as difficult as the pure crack climbing up pitch one. Move into the corner under the roof and mix cracks with facial features for a pleasant ride until you are directly under the roof. Place a larger cam, #3 as I recall, and proceed to turn the roof to the right. That move is not as difficult as the climbing right above (photo above) it for another 40' or so until you reach the anchor on a short ledge. This ground pretty much moves you back into crack climbing. Make sure to use a longer runner on the roof protection. The Headache, II, 5.10a, Zion National Park, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-10
Views: 2073 | Comments: 0
Iron Messiah

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Iron Messiah

3rd Pitch - 5.10c/ Although mentioned as the crux lead in the Falcon Guide, several, including myself disagree. Most concur that it is pitch 8. The 3rd pitch is one of the shorter pitches, but not one to combine. Maneuver right, around the belay tree at the top of pitch 2 to the base of the wall. Wander up an unprotected section of the wall directly below the dihedral (1st chimney) into a sandy groove. You can protect the grove in about three spots, but due to the marginal aspect of the protection, lends to the pitches rating. The 5.10c section is short and kind of reachy. I thought the rating should be a little less severe. Another crux, albeit much more fun, is the start move it takes to access the first chimney. Once in the left facing dihedral, continue up easy ground to a hanging belay on the wall to the left. Iron Messiah, III, 5.10c, Spearhead, Zion National Park, June, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-06-10
Views: 1838 | Comments: 0
Sprocket Rocks

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Sprocket Rocks

Missy's Playhouse, Sprocket Rocks, Cedar City, UT, May, 2007
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-05-21
Views: 798 | Comments: 0
Birdsbeak, IV, 5.10, A2

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Birdsbeak, IV, 5.10, A2

The Sentinel -Birdsbeak Spire,IV, 5.10, A2, FA: Will Oxx and John Middendorf, 1993, as seen from ascent of the Sentinel, Zion National Park, April, 2007. Check out the similarity between this spire and Smith Rocks Monkey Face.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-05-09
Views: 874 | Comments: 0
Whatever Happens, Happens, 5.9

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Whatever Happens, Happens, 5.9

Whatever Happens… Happens – 90’- 5.9/ Surprisingly nice route. I had done the Roofs of Jericho two days earlier and looked over at this route and thought it was another soft rating by Todd on Prophesy. But it is a long steep route that gives you two 5.9 moves towards the finish, both kind of overhanging type stuff where you have to trust heavily on some precarious varnish. Although it is well bolted, a fall on this kind of stuff will take some skin with it. This is a long route moving over the left hand side of the arch to a rap chain. The rap below the arch is not for this route. 11 bolts to anchor. I took this photo after I led it from belaying below Roofs of Jericho, May, 2007, Prophesy Wall
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-05-09
Views: 728 | Comments: 0
Rainbow Serpent

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Rainbow Serpent

Rainbow Serpent, WI 6, Recital Hall, Devils Gap, The Ghost, Banff National Park, January 9, 2007- Taken from Fearful Symmetry, WI 6X across Recital Hall. This photo was provided by Benn E. of our lead at the broken lower portion of our pillar. We were making note of their broken pillar, they ours.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-03-23
Views: 706 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Fearful Symmetry, WI 6X

Average Rating = 4.15/5 Fearful Symmetry, WI 6X

Fearful Symmetry, WI 6X from our belay on Rainbow Serpent, WI 6, Recital Hall, Devils Gap, The Ghost, Banff National Park. January 9, 2007.
Submitted by: dowww on 2007-03-21
Views: 2465 | Votes: 13 | Comments: 15
Jimmy Durante, 5.9R

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Jimmy Durante, 5.9R

Submitted by: dowww on 2007-03-21
Views: 1331 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 2