Photos by gunked

Just a shot that my buddy Miguel took of me leading one of Buttermilk's lower pitches. I'm pretty sure this was the last ascent of the season(3-26) as the climb was gone within a few days of our ascent. This was actually the only day that I was lucky enough to climb the final pitch of the route. The pitches were mostly 4- to 4 conditions. It was dripping on us and often fairly sun-bleached. The section shown here was unusually incredible ice for the day. The photo was cropped to remove the date from his camera.

Because the description is completely and totally necessary...............................

Because the description is completely and totally necessary...............................

Because the description is completely and totally necessary...............................

Because the description is completely and totally necessary...............................

Because the description is completely and totally necessary...............................

This is a shot me on one of Buttermilk's many pitches. I think it's the base of the crux. The photo was, obviously, slightly retouched for color enhancement. -Jason

This what my face looked like about 8 or so hours after I cracked it with my adze. We were climbing a 4 pitch route route called The Needle in Southern NY State. I'm pretty sure it's not legal, so I'm holding back specifics. I was just starting to follow the second pitch up a vertical, thin curtain. I was maybe ten feet up when my left axe ripped. The next thing I remember, I was hanging at the bottom and my crampons were just touching the ledge. Apparently, the adze deflected off of my sunglasses (leaving a scratch right down the middle) and ripping my cheek open. Lucky I didn't pierce my eye! I decided to keep climbing and I cleaned it out myself later that night (just after I took the picture). It's amazing how well butterfly stitches work!!!

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the pics for the ice screw cleaning post

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

This is one of the photos for my post on how to sharpen ice screws and make them like new.

Same shoe, different side. And, since I have to have at least 40 charcters to submit a photo.......................!

This is the aid shoe that I speak so highly of. It's a La Sportiva Boulder high-top with a few modifications. Tom Wandall, the Berkely Marmot mountain works resoler did them for me. They rock!!! I've free-climbed up to 5.9 in them. Considering I'm not a very strong free-climber, that's saying sumptin'!

Description: This is a shot of me leading Left Flow in Lee Vining Canyon, CA about in '96 or '97. The photo was taken by JD and it is my favorite shot of me on lead. This was probably my scariest lead ever as it was the hardest route that I ever led on ice and I did it in crappy conditions to boot. It was dinner-plate the whole way and my feet and my right axe popped while pulling the bulge. Nothing like hanging from one axe in a dinner-plate well above useless pro with continual spin-drifts in my face. The pro was amusing at best! This climb still haunts me a little! The photo was taken before I realized that I bit off a little more than I could chew. Notice the climber way off to the left following Spiral Staircase. I probably should crop the photo, but, oh well! Hope you enjoy!! -Jason

This is a shot of me on our first El Cap ascent, Zodiac. My buddy, George, took this photo. I just finished jugging out the pitch 14 roof. I was checkin' out the topo for P15.