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Photos by jds100

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Nearing the top of Dizzy 5.8

Average Rating = 2.40/5 Nearing the top of Dizzy 5.8

At Cedar Bluff, in southern Illinois, Dizzy 5.8. Easy, but fun, with a great view from the top, it's typically a last climb for my partners and me when we climb at Cedar Bluff. It also involves a free-hanging rap back to the ground.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-11-20
Views: 1883 | Votes: 6 | Comments: 0
Darrell Sauer leading Three Hour Tour, 10a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Darrell Sauer leading Three Hour Tour, 10a

Three Hour Tour is a thin technical 10a on a seperated boulder at Jackson Falls in southern Illinois. The first half of the route is a slightly-upward traverse on very thin crimps and hidden foot placements. A cool head will not think about the scaping pendulum involved in a fall. Access the route by scrambling up on smaller boulders, then step across the "chasm" onto the S.S. Minnow (large boulder, shaped like a boat's prow). The traverse left exposes you to ever higher fall potential. At the edge, go up to the first ledge, then run it out to the top anchors. Seconds should keep in mind that a fall will also incur a swing; you might want to unclip after you pass the bolt a bit.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-08-05
Views: 1409 | Comments: 0
Mike Balossi on Group Therapy, 10a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Mike Balossi on Group Therapy, 10a

Group Therapy is one of the more popular routes at Jackson Falls. It is slightly overhanging the whole way, with a couple of bulging roofs to contend with up high. The holds are generally good, but a climber can get pumped from the overhang, and from trying to select from what looks like a lot of good holds to choose from. Can be a quick fun run, and a good workout; a good introduction to the grade at Jackson Falls.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-08-05
Views: 1927 | Comments: 0
Darrell Sauer leading Psychotherapy, 10c

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Darrell Sauer leading Psychotherapy, 10c

Psychotherapy is a fairly burly route, right on the rounded arete as the main cliffline makes a 90 degree turn. Like Group Therapy, directly to the left, it is slightly overhanging almost the whole way. There seem to be a lot of holds, but finding the holds that work for you without pumping out is one of the challenges. Other challenges come along up higher, as you may need to slap for an unseen (hoped for) hold, and negotiate your way over the typical southern Illinois bulges on small, reachy, or rounded holds. More sustained 10c than some others at the same grade at Jackson Falls.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-08-05
Views: 1343 | Comments: 0
Mike Balossi on unnamed arete

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Mike Balossi on unnamed arete

The route is on the large rounded arete at the 90 degree turn of the main cliffline, with the Y Wall (a shorter seperated boulder in front of the main cliffline) to the right as you face the cliff. It gets tougher as you get higher, with overhanging difficulties at the crux and the finish. Kinda burly.
Submitted by: jds100 on 2002-08-05
Views: 1303 | Comments: 0