Photos by mankypin

Stellar onsight lead of 11 b/c finger crack by Lee Landkammer. Just fooling around on Day 1 and we stumbled onto this beauty. The picture is of Lee starting a very ballsy traverse through a roof when the crack ran out.

After the 2nd pitch horror show this was the view. Bomber rock and crack systems that provided many options.

No signage at the base, we climb, we top out, we laugh. Is it a sign of the times?

Poodle Sex is a cool line with a really classy name. Had to climb it, only found out the name later on. Very positive mixed section with good cams and nuts.

Really good fun even if it was colder than a well driller's ass. Your hooking gets better when everything shatters like glass. The Designator is always a good time and the approach is negligible.

Someone smart once told me, "Take the easiest path cause it's gonna be hard enough". Truer words have never been spoken. This day the ice was brittle and steeeeeeeeeep. The path of least resistance was still an ass-whuppin.

Andy Gruber and myself after a great day in the ice park. At different times we both got bitch slapped by dinner plates and our overall looks were probably improved. Our Austrian bud is missed here in Colorado

Downstream from Tic Tac, this trad mixed line is stupidly overhung out to a thin curtain and then finishes on some WI4-5. It was inspiring to watch him climb up and then downclimb the crux, then back up to redpoint it. He has balls of steel and the arms to match.

Here's Jessica and Eric following up the last few pitches of the Hesse Ferguson on Hallet Peak. Beautiful day, quality company and really great climbing. Where else can you climb 6 pitches at 11,000 feet and be eating pizza by 2:00 pm?

Early morning, French Roast just kicking in and the involuntary gyrations begin. My friend and I put up a new route on petrified hornet wall. We named it Bleached Bones because of the bleached skeletal remains at the base. It's ringlocks to off hands in a fun flare out of sight from the ground. Bleached Bones is 35m at 11+ on the far right side of the wall.

Really a fun route with tons of choices for gear. Takes hand size to tight fists in one crack, .5 to .75 in the other and nuts above the body sized flaring pod. Could be led with an anorexic desert rack.

In Loch Vale, Mixed Feelings is a stellar climb. M6 up to WI 5 on this day with bomber cams and one fixed blade before you gently get on the cicle. One of the best days out with friends captured by a new friend.

Bodacious climbing, windy spindrifty conditions and every move was a total blast followed by some gymnasty kind of move that caused sparks! Great fun slathered in cold fear with a side order of jiz.

First Pitch with spooky grade 5 hooking. Jack manages to finesse in some screws even though the ice is like swiss cheese. At the top where the angle kicks back there's only a thin veneer of ice to smear on. Glad it wasn't my pitch!..At least if the gear rips you land on a snowy slope/alpine crash pad.

Late season, probably mid December, we found alot of ice on this bit. Did it this year (05) in November and it's usually a lot leaner. I like leading when it's skinny cause there's not much ice left sometimes for the follower. Brian took this shot as I procrastinated.

November on the Diamond. The Smear of Fear is far from touching down, but it very rarely does. An awesome place to be but a tad chilly.

Right off the deck this bitch is in your face. The ice is poorly bonded and sketchy, should have left the screws at home. This photo of Alan was taken by Jon G. as he was slowly freezing to death in a 50mph wind.

Jack hooked me up with the second ascent of this line of his. What a great time! Mebbe M7 with bonus cornice tunneling at the end.

Stellar Ruth Gorge granite! Lee Landkamer walked the onsite with interesting gear. Probably 11b/c with this crazy traverse to the only weakness on the face to belay from. Below on the glacier you can see our tracks skiing to the base.

11b and the b is for balancey. Took me several tries to put my foot in my pocket and stand up. Good fun.

Somewhere above the main bridge

Some fun steep stuff below the gazebo, it's been on my hitlist for so long it almost fell off.

My foster dad Jack, beating the crap out of some chandeliery shit.

Needed one more mental screw before the business.

On the way to the Weeping Pillar, the climb blew me away. Gorgeous, approachable, 600' tall and dripping wet in spots. I'm sportin wood just thinkin about it. Lucky Canadians.......