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Photos by saxfiend

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Concentration on the High Step

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Concentration on the High Step

Denmark focuses on his foot placement while making the move up the crack on Wild Iris, a fine 5.9 at Jamestown. It was a great day to get on some hard climbs we hadn't done before.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-10-30 | Last Modified: 2007-11-11
Views: 1915 | Comments: 2
Finishing the Lead on Pigsty

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Finishing the Lead on Pigsty

Though the name makes it sound like a dirty route, Pigsty is an excellent and challenging lead on beautiful rock at Jamestown. I'd seconded this climb once before, and came back this time for the redpoint on a gorgeous fall day. Photo by Huong.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-10-20
Views: 1545 | Comments: 0
Swallowed by Pin Chimney

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Swallowed by Pin Chimney

Barely visible against the sunny rock, I lead the last section of Pin Chimney, an excellent 5.8 trad route at Sandrock. Should have been wearing a blue shirt! Photo by Larry.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-10-14
Views: 2171 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 2
Sundown on the Pinnacle

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Sundown on the Pinnacle

My friends and I had done some hard climbs on their first visit to Sandrock, so I thought it'd be nice to end the day with the Standard Route, an easy-going lead for me and a nice view of the valley at sundown from the Pinnacle for Huong and Larry. Photo by Larry.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-09-12
Views: 1458 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
Clear of the Crux on Misty

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Clear of the Crux on Misty

Though I still had some hard moves ahead of me at this point, I was very happy to have made it through the cheese-grater crimps of Misty's crux section. This was my first redpoint of a 5.10, and I was pretty stoked about it! Photo by Frank Nederhand.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-08-20
Views: 2429 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 3
Taking Thirds on

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Taking Thirds on "Seconds"

Greg leads the third pitch of Seconds, a burly 5.8 at Laurel Knob. Since he's an LK veteran, I left the leading to him on my first trip there. Not long after this shot was taken, this water groove became a waterfall as we were caught in a late afternoon shower and had to bail in the rain. In spite of getting wet, it was great climbing at this spectacular cliff.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-08-07
Views: 2060 | Comments: 2
Keeping the Faith at Sandrock

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Keeping the Faith at Sandrock

Nga lays back the crack on Faith, a nice 5.8 at Sandrock. Though rain was threatening all day, we got in a good day of climbing without getting wet.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-07-30
Views: 1689 | Comments: 0
On the CCK Traverse

Average Rating = 3.00/5 On the CCK Traverse

Denmark scopes out the flake moves above the traverse on the third pitch of CCK. Beautiful climbing like this makes me want to get back to the Gunks as soon as I can!
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-07-30
Views: 1307 | Votes: 3 | Comment: 1
After the Big Move

Average Rating = 0.00/5 After the Big Move

Leading the fourth pitch of Directissima (aka P3 of High E) was one of the high points of my first trip to the Gunks. After having plenty of time to think about that committing move from under the roof and up onto the face, it wasn't nearly as freaky as I'd anticipated. Photo by Denmark.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-06-26
Views: 981 | Comment: 1
Best 5.7 in the Guide?

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Best 5.7 in the Guide?

That's what the Dixie Cragger's Atlas says about Blonde Ambition, and it's definitely a three-star route. Here I'm having fun leading it while to the left, my friend Jeff leads Second Sun (5.9), another highly-rated Sunset climb. Photo by Mona.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-06-11
Views: 1653 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Making the Mantle on Sneaky Pete

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Making the Mantle on Sneaky Pete

From the safety of toprope, I took the direct start on this fun slab at Woody Wall (most leaders start from up on the ledge to my left). The friction was great, reminded me a lot of Stone Mountain. Photo by Denmark.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-05-04
Views: 1639 | Vote: 1 | Comment: 1
Starting P1 of Fruit Loops

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Starting P1 of Fruit Loops

Anyone going to Rumbling Bald shouldn't miss Fruit Loops (5.7). The climb has nice variety (crack, chimney and exposed slab climbing) and plentiful placements for gear. There's a tricky move or two right off the ground to get you thinking until you place your first piece, then it's fun climbing all the way to the top. I led both pitches. Photo by Derek W.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-03-23
Views: 2336 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Blue Sky and a Sea of Granite -- No Alternative

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Blue Sky and a Sea of Granite -- No Alternative

Never mind the 5.5 rating, leading this long two-pitch route was a highlight of my trip to Stone Mountain. This exposed second pitch has no real protection apart from a single bolt halfway up the 150 feet of slab climbing. By the time I reached the top, I felt like I'd accomplished something! Photo by Ryan.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-03-08
Views: 1542 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 2
Cranking the Roof on Talon

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Cranking the Roof on Talon

Huong starts the roof moves on pitch 1 of Talon. A bunch of us took the road less traveled and found some great climbs in Tennessee Wall South.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2006-01-16
Views: 1037 | Comments: 0
First Time on the Sharp End

Average Rating = 1.00/5 First Time on the Sharp End

I get a spot from Tom as I start off on One-Ten at Sunset. Not a particularly exciting picture, but it's my first trad lead, so I want it on record!
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-12-15
Views: 1149 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Past the Crux on

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Past the Crux on "Stranger than Friction"

Denmark leads Stranger than Friction (5.9), a mixed climb with a tough, slippery start at Currahee. I was new to slab climbing, so I was glad to be around guys like Denmark who are experienced at it. This is an excellent route.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-11-21
Views: 1438 | Comment: 1
Exposed on

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Exposed on "Paradox," P2

Late in the day and in full sun, Scott Perkins leads the second pitch of Primitive Paradox, a beautiful two-star route at Tallulah Gorge, as I belay. It was the perfect finish to a fine day of intense climbing. Unbeknownst to us, we were under observation. David Noxon and his son from Charlotte were watching us from the scenic overlook on the other side of the gorge and taking pictures. We met them in the parking lot as we were leaving, and he was gracious enough to share this striking shot of Tallulah at its finest. Photo courtesy of David Noxon.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-11-14
Views: 2031 | Votes: 25 | Comments: 11
Pulling the Layback on

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Pulling the Layback on "Mescaline"

Seconding Scott Perkins, I crank through the layback corner on the second pitch of Mescaline Daydream, a superb three-star route. The weather was great for my first visit ever to Tallulah Gorge, and I couldn't have had a better climbing partner. Photo by Scott.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-11-12
Views: 1501 | Votes: 2 | Comments: 0
Looking for the Next Placement

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Looking for the Next Placement

"Yum Yum Tree" was my longest lead yet (about 100 ft), and a very satisfying one. The pro is thin toward the bottom, and I was a lot happier with the cam I got in shortly after this picture was taken than I was with the two nuts below me. We couldn't have picked a better day to go to Jamestown, the weather was great and the rock was dry. Photo by Huong.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-10-31
Views: 872 | Comments: 0
Making Progress on

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Making Progress on "Rumors"

Rumors Right is a strenuous (for me anyway) 5.10c climb that I've made a kind of project for myself. Earlier this summer, Andrea and I flailed around on it quite a while before figuring out enough of the sequence to get us about halfway through the climb. This time, I got up to the big V and had only a few feet to go before peeling off. Next time, maybe I'll actually send it! Photo by Huong.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-09-18
Views: 1692 | Vote: 1 | Comment: 1
It's not like the gym . . .

Average Rating = 3.00/5 It's not like the gym . . .

My friend Huong works her way up the Chode Route at Allenbrook in Atlanta. She had never climbed outdoors before this and had a good time doing some great climbing. This is a nice spot for new climbers to try out real rock.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-09-18
Views: 2461 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Welcome Rest on

Average Rating = 1.00/5 Welcome Rest on "Ankles"

I was glad to get to this clipping stance on "Ankles Away," a nice two-star 5.9 at Foster Falls. Rests are rare after you get past the easy start up to the first bolt. I was going for an onsight lead but a couple of falls at the crux blew that. Still a very satisfying climb. Photo by Nga.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-08-29
Views: 1136 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0

Average Rating = 0.00/5 "Liberty Bell" -- Cranking the Roof

After Denmark onsighted the lead on this climb, we all took turns pulling through the roof at the start of Liberty Bell. In my case, a heel hook gave me the height to go for what Denmark called the "secret hold." This is a great Sunset route with a tough start. Photo by Andrea (adoubleyou).
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-08-22
Views: 886 | Comment: 1
Scratching

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Scratching "Fleas" at Sandrock

Using a handy sidepull, I make the final moves to the anchors leading "My Dog Has Fleas." (5.9) This is a really fun route with some slopy holds that can be hard to stick to on a hot day in July, but I sent it with no falls. Photo by adoubleyou.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-07-27
Views: 935 | Comments: 0
Pulling the start on Wind Walker

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Pulling the start on Wind Walker

Antje powers through the roofy start of Wind Walker, a real classic at Sunset Park. One of our party led the route onsight, and the rest of us toproped it. Because it was late afternoon, the crag was in full sun and broiling hot, but still an outstanding climb to end the day with. I was glad to find a nice ledge to shoot from so this would not be yet another photo looking straight up/down at the climber. I'm pleased with the composition and colors, and the dynamic position of the climber.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-07-05
Views: 619 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 0
Onsighting Jacob's Ladder

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Onsighting Jacob's Ladder

This lead came at the end of a great day of hard climbing, including my first 5.10b (on TR, but still . . .). Though this route is pretty easy, it's also pretty runout before the first bolt, maybe 20 feet or so off the deck. Robert offered to place a cam to give me some protection lower down, but I wanted the onsight so I led the route as is. I did breathe a little easier after I'd clipped that first bolt! Photo by Robert Morris.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-06-14
Views: 1246 | Comments: 0
Reaching on Gravity Boots

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Reaching on Gravity Boots

Couldn't ask for a better climbing day at Foster Falls. This was my second ever sport lead, and this 5.7 route was a nice confidence builder. Photo by Sandra.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-04-30
Views: 460 | Vote: 1 | Comment: 1
Stretch for the Anchors

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Stretch for the Anchors

This is a 5.9 lead route at Wall Crawlers gym. I haven't been lead climbing long and this was my first difficult project; it took me a while before I could hit the anchors without any hangdogging, but I finally made it! Photo by my faithful climbing partner Megan (who was NOT belaying at the time!).
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-04-14
Views: 843 | Comments: 2
Halfway up

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Halfway up "Pleasing to the Touch"

I look pretty serious for a 5.6 climb, but it was only my second time outside; anyway, I was probably just squinting with the sun. Later that day I did get on a more serious route -- Lucky Strikes (5.9) which was pretty cool. Photo courtesy of Frank Nederhand.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-03-19
Views: 866 | Vote: 1 | Comments: 3
New Year's Climb

Average Rating = 0.00/5 New Year's Climb

I just started climbing back in November, and this is my first time on real rock, about halfway up a nice easy route at Palisades (probably 5.6). Jim and his kids were nice enough to let me join them, that's his son Josh on belay.
Submitted by: saxfiend on 2005-01-08
Views: 1538 | Comment: 1