Photos by chugach001

Les Lloyd mid-freeze headed up to the huts. We got smart and headed out for burgers and beer then got dumb and bivied while temps dropped to -52f.

650' of WI5 about 1 minute from the road. Just one of MANY plumbs lined up along the road.

Frostbite, dinner plates and great routes await you in Caribou Creek. Rythym and Blues on the left, Ragtime on the right.

Jason, bare-footing through the water pitch (P9 -after the pendulum) on a May ascent.

Summit Day. Alex just above the Autobahn with Foraker's Sultana Ridge rising in the background.

HHiking in to Spring Loaded. The mid-wall ice constitutes the 4th pitch. Original P's 5-7 lead straight up. Our variation veered slightly right on P's 5-7, which is out of view.

Mark cruising through the middle pitches of Solar Slab .

Sunrise from about 12,000' on our way up.

Half Dome, Washington Column, Royal Arches and the Awanee Hotel.

Sunset at Camp Muir with Adams and Hood off in the background.

Day 8. Storm finally broke. We'd been buried in our tent the first night, dug cave and spent a total of 39 hours digging (without food or sleep) just trying to keep from being buried alive. Snow was accumulating 2 feet/hour. Finally dug a second cave with a 40' tunnel and was able to get some sleep.

40' tunnel into our 2nd cave. The powder was ~15' deep so our cave was way the hell down - in order to find firm snow. The first cave was a pit entrance that we couldn't keep clear. On the 2nd cave we dug a trench and then use skis, pickets and axes to create a roof support - then piled on blocks and let it drift over. Good times.

Mike Looney on the 4th pitch of Springloaded, north of Valdez. Starting to snow, night is falling. This is the only true ice pitch on the route. Looney pitched off about 50 feet up, got KO'd and broke some ribs. My anchor was purely psychological so the screws between us kept things safe.

Flying past the tall one on a recent flight from Kathmandu. Ama Dablan down below Lhotse.

Just flying by wishing I was down there climbing...

Just another sunny day in Yosemite cruising up the Snake Dike on Half Dome with Big Wall Bill.