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Routes : Europe : Switzerland : Schwyz : Bockmattli : Kleiner Turm : Alte Nordwand

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Alte Nordwand - 5.8 A0

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
C. Hauser, J. Krebs 1945
Rock (Sport) Aid
PG13
9
1100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Start near the tree. Go up and left through the wall.First pitch not rated, then 5b A0 (10a free), 5b, 4b, 3b, 4b, 4a, 5b, 3b. 5b is 5.8 YDS. Good anchors, bolts in the harder section. Some nuts and cams might be useful in between. Don't take too many though. Long runners will help. 10 runners are fine.

Descent Options:

The descent is a little tricky. From the summit, either rap down 25 feet towards SW, then scrambled down another 25 feet through the trees, take a left through the man wide crack and rap down again. You are at an anchor at a saddle now. Or rap down SE ri

Submitted by: steple on 2009-10-23
Last Modified: 2010-03-31
Views: 501
Route ID: 102158

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: steple on 2009-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not hard, but adventerous.

There is quite a traverse on pitch 6. Be prepared from some rope drag. Otherwise nice. Swapped lead, led 1,2,5,7+8.

Added: 2009-10-23