Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : The Central Wall : My Wife's Pajamas
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My Wife's Pajamas - 5.6
Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
G
1
standard rack to 2". I found some small TCUs to be helpful in thin horizontals near the bottom.
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Description:
This route is located just before the smaller amphitheater found before you reach the main one that has Golden Earring, etc. It's a line that wanders up the slabby face toward a right arching crack near the top. When near the top, instead of taking the crack to the right go straight up toward the tree.Descent Options:
Single rope rappel off of a slung tree with rings/quicklink or walk off Meat Puppet crag trail to gully.
Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-04-11
Last Modified: 2010-04-23
Views: 1311
Route ID: 104224
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
Last 15 ft or so is the crux..fun route
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Added: 2012-05-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
good way...
...to get to and from the Meat Puppet Crag. The most interesting climbing comes in the last 15 feet or so. Stay out of the right-arching crack, stand on top of a pedestal and face climb up to the belay tree.
Added: 2011-04-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
a little thin but fun
Ok line. A bit far to your first piece (a small horizontal) and then meanders up. I remember it seemed a bit thin at the time.
It was a little exciting when I started traversing out under the arching crack and had to turn around; much easier to just skip that and go straight up but maybe I'll come back and try that way again. Felt pretty consistent.
Great route for a toprope party!
Update: 3/18/10: lead it again and found that its' reasonable to head more or less straight up but you'll want some small cams for the first couple pieces (purple TCU, small C3). Felt pretty good except the last move is still a little intimidating.
It was a little exciting when I started traversing out under the arching crack and had to turn around; much easier to just skip that and go straight up but maybe I'll come back and try that way again. Felt pretty consistent.
Great route for a toprope party!
Update: 3/18/10: lead it again and found that its' reasonable to head more or less straight up but you'll want some small cams for the first couple pieces (purple TCU, small C3). Felt pretty good except the last move is still a little intimidating.
Added: 2010-04-11
