Routes : North America : United States : Utah : St. George : Zion National Park : Temple Of Sinawava : Monkeyfinger (III)
Monkeyfinger (III) - 5.12c
Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
double rack plus xtra TCUs and med. wires, 2 ropes
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Description:
One of the finest free routes in Zion. continuous difficulty, exposure, and great rock. approach via bushy 5.6 ramp to the right or unprotected 5.9 direct. pitch 2: face climb left (.11a). climb left side of pillar until possible to move back right. belay on top of pillar. pitch 3: (.12b)climb beautiful "Black corner" many .5s, .75s, 1s. finish in the chimney and belay @ butt ledge. pitch 4: (.11a) long varied pitch starts somewhat broken, undercling out roof then nice fingers and hands to a hanging belay. pitch 5: (.10d)continue up hand and fist crack to hanging belay in large pod. pitch 6: (.12c or .10a) climb the "Monkeyfinger crack" on the left face (many .75, 1) or .10a OW to the right. belay at the Monkeyhouse ledge. pitch 7: jam strenuous slot to nice ledge up and right (.10d) pitch 8: face climb up and right until you can reach a handcrack. belay on another good ledge (.11a) pitch 9: climb broken, left facing corner to rim. (.10b) rap the route
Submitted by: crackwhore on 2002-03-16
Views: 1211
Route ID: 13650
Most Recent Photo
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8 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 8 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
nearly onsight
all but the monkey fingers pitch, and followed pitches cleanly. (it would be nice if multi-pitch routes could be broken up into pitches)
Added: 2009-04-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great route
I lead the 2 crux pitches and had to hang on both of them. I'd love to go back and send this route.
Added: 2008-04-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Monkeyfinger
Lead all the pitches onsight with Erik P.
Added: 2007-02-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a A0 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
:)
Dragged up by Scotty. We aided the black corner and freed everything else. Super sustained! at around 10+. Varied climbing including fingers / thin hands / fist / offwidth / slab / sandbox-death-stem-chimney. Rack: triples to .75, double 1, triple 2, double 3, 3.5, 4, and a few HB offset nuts.
Added: 2006-11-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
need to work the black corner. awesome route. very sustained. mostly good rock. reach move up high need bolt replaced.
Witnessed by: butofcourse
Added: 2004-11-06
Added: 2004-11-06
