Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Front Range : Clear Creek Canyon : Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof
Gneiss Roof - 5.9
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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12 QDs (few mid and shoulder-length slings), RPs-med stoppers, small TCUs-#2 camalot
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Description:
5.9+ P1. First pitch of Gneiss Route. 12 bolts, 5.11-, 120 feet. P2. Hand traverse left past two clips to steep left leaning ramp. Balance up ramp to stance under roof. Traverse under roof (#3 TCU/#1 friend), clip bolt after roof and continue straight up (possible RP) to the plush 'Ashtray Belay'. Optional 150 foot rap to ground. 5 bolts, 5.9, 60 feet. P3. Stem up dihedral, step right onto arete and stretch up to the start of the roof crack (#2 Camalot). Make an airy hand traverse right using the roof crack for pro (#.75 and #1 camalot), placing the last piece as high as you can reach. Mantle over the right side of the roof and clip a bolt. Continue straight up over slabs, bulges and roofs to Surette Ledge. Optional creative gear belay above the third bolt. 6 bolts, 5.9+, 120 feet. Descent: Walk off left across exposed ledge and descend the loose hillside. OR, Traverse right to last anchors of Gneiss Route and rap twice with two ropes or three times with 70m cord. Be very careful of loose rock on ledge. Photo: http://images.climbingboulder.com/beta/source/1032.jpg
Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2003-11-25
Views: 913
Route ID: 30183
2 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: boomshackalak on 2011-04-10
(View Climbing Log)
did pitch 1&2
had to bail after the roof traverse cause my partner was too shaky. awesome climbing up to that point tho!
Added: 2012-03-12
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Top Rope ascent by: lokiraven on 2006-01-14
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Fucking cool route. Linked it up w/ Ride the snake
Added: 2006-01-14