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Clown time is over - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
Gear to 2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

There are 2 start's. The original start had you stepping arcoss the gap at the base of the wall. The most common start is the same as the start for Hand over hand, only you go left instead of straight up. Pitch one traverse out left across the super easy slab(with no gear) to a belay on the "spine" of the slab. The belay is on a big horn/flake thing with a horizontal crack to the side. Pitch 2 goes staight up the slab to the large roof. And this is where the name comes from...after all that easy slab climbing It's time to step up and pull the 5.9 roof. There's a small crack in the roof for gear. Reach up over the lip and find a HUGE jug cut your feet loose and yard up! Once above the roof there are 2 variations. Either continue straight up through the next bulge at 5.9 or go left up an easy ramp at 5.7. Eiher way is good and well protected. Belay on the top of the dome. Walk/scramble off the backside.

Submitted by: flamer on 2003-12-03
Views: 688
Route ID: 45043

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
Onsight Onsight ascent by: oldguy53 on 2000-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Its the cover shot in the guide book- that's why

one hard move. camera ready?

Added: 2007-12-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: pswade on 2007-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome Route

A fun 5.9, the first move (the step-over) was easy for my partner a six-footer, but difficult for me, an almost five-eighter. Belay the first move far down the flake to avoid the risk of being pulled into the chimney. The bucket jug above the roof is HUGE, take it!

Added: 2007-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: qlenae on 2004-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-07-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: flamer on 1997-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I've climbed this route 3 times now, It's really sweet and highly recommended!! Don't forget to stop and look down after you cut your feet loose on the roof!!!

Added: 1997-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dwise on 1996-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1996-09-01

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