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Whimsical Dreams - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
Standard rack to 3".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.40/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

GREAT, classic route up thin, continuous finger crack over a series of roofs to a 2-bolt belay ledge. A good second pitch continues up on wider cracks over another roof to summit.

Submitted by: rck_climber on 2001-10-06
Views: 1301
Route ID: 4731

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6 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cracklover on 2011-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent route

Second try

Added: 2011-10-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: stevecurtis on 1996-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars My first route at turkey

A nice climb. As a turkey rock regular, I didn't like this one as well as some of the others. a few obligatorily painful jams

Added: 2009-10-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cracklover on 2009-02-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route...

... which I did not do justice. Oh well. Will come back when I'm stronger.

Added: 2009-02-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: breaksnclimbs on 2006-12-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Soooo Cloooooose!!!

Came off just under the large upper roof. Cruised the crux just let my foot pop up high.

Added: 2006-12-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: angry on 1978-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars !

Onsighted in Jimmy Dunn's presence after I lied to him by telling him I onsighted it a week earlier. Barely pull it off. Took a year to redpoint it again. Ha.

As of May 2006, there is no 2 bolt anchor. Rather, there is a big cable threaded through a constriction. It's safe but a 2 bolt anchor would be nicer.

One of the best routes at it's grade anywhere.

Added: 2006-12-02

... Read all 6 ascent notes