Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Reimers Ranch : Dr. Seuss Wall : Butter Side Down
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Butter Side Down - 5.11b
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts to anchors with quicklinks for cleaning.
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Description:
Starting above a wedge-shaped boulder, climb the face with a horizontal crack about halfway up. Finish above a shelf just below the anchors. Rusty bolt #2 was replaced and move down and left about 18 inches or so. A new bolt was placed just under the horizontal crack to protect the crux move and fall above the wedge boulder.
Submitted by: bmoscon on 2004-03-08
Last Modified: 2013-02-27
Views: 1145
Route ID: 49767
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Challenging on-sight
Eked this one out.
Added: 2014-04-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2014-02-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
a little tweaky
A challenging climb to spot the holds on an onsight attempt. I blew it. Interesting problem to work out. It was a fun experience.
Have an issue with the anchor location - they ought to have been higher by 2-3 feet to allow for the obvious shelf stance at the top rather than 1-2 feet above the shelf. The rock is solid up there and would have made a better ending point and move. Likewise, clipping #3 on a sketchy set of small holds high above #2 could have been managed better with different bolt placements. The obvious location for a bolt placement was just above or below the arcing crack/flake since these are the best hands and feet on the climb and just below the crux move.
Some sharp rock. A run-out (for Austin) from bolt #2 to #3, and falling at bolt 2 onto 1 will likely land you on the wedge rock below.
All and all, a fun climb.
2011 FEB 13: Finally came back to this climb to redpoint it. I'm still equally critical of the bolt placements. It may be time for a retro due to #2 looking rusty. Perhaps it'll get fixed then.
Update 2013/02/27: Adam and I retro-bolted the route to replace the rusty bolt #2 and the fix the terrible fall at the crux with an added bolt below the crack.
Have an issue with the anchor location - they ought to have been higher by 2-3 feet to allow for the obvious shelf stance at the top rather than 1-2 feet above the shelf. The rock is solid up there and would have made a better ending point and move. Likewise, clipping #3 on a sketchy set of small holds high above #2 could have been managed better with different bolt placements. The obvious location for a bolt placement was just above or below the arcing crack/flake since these are the best hands and feet on the climb and just below the crux move.
Some sharp rock. A run-out (for Austin) from bolt #2 to #3, and falling at bolt 2 onto 1 will likely land you on the wedge rock below.
All and all, a fun climb.
2011 FEB 13: Finally came back to this climb to redpoint it. I'm still equally critical of the bolt placements. It may be time for a retro due to #2 looking rusty. Perhaps it'll get fixed then.
Update 2013/02/27: Adam and I retro-bolted the route to replace the rusty bolt #2 and the fix the terrible fall at the crux with an added bolt below the crack.
Added: 2009-11-01
