Routes : North America : United States : Pennsylvania : Southeastern Region : Chickies Rock : #4 - Main Wall : Witches Brew Direct
Witches Brew Direct - 5.3 popular
Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Rock
G
2
Cams and Stoppers
180
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Description:
Same start and first pitch as Witches Brew. Pitch two, continue up and left of the roof. Stem up the chimney whose top is blocked by large chockstones. Swing left onto the face to the top. Can be done in a single pitch with a 60M, but rope drag can make the finish challenging. Original line listed in old PA guide.
Submitted by: dredsovrn on 2006-05-25
Views: 2614
Route ID: 51013
15 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 15 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.4 |
Safety Rating | G |
Flash ascent by: FoolyCoolyOo on 2011-10-09
(View Climbing Log)
First Trad Lead
Good route, very well protected. Strange moves below belay.
Added: 2011-10-09
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: albecker on 2011-08-11
(View Climbing Log)
Fun Climb
Easy climb, fun lead with good exposure.
Added: 2011-10-03
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: fsm109 on 2008-09-12
(View Climbing Log)
Witches Brew Direct
Dirty.
Added: 2009-09-04
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.3 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: dragonflydanser on 2009-04-12
(View Climbing Log)
Dusty Climb
My first Multi-Pitch, but could have done it in one, if I had known. Lots of loose pebbles, look out below!! Dusty and draggy at the top. Might redirect the rope out onto the downstream face at the last station to get it off the chimney while belaying second. Nice view. Rugged downclimb...
Added: 2009-08-27
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: md_rock on 2009-06-07
(View Climbing Log)
What a climb!
This was my first lead at Chickies. I ended up making it one long pitch, after I blew past where I should have belayed from. 60M a must when doing it as a single pitch. Just be mindful of your runners and rope travel, rope drag near the top can be a bitch.
Chimney was a blast! Fun moves to pull out and around chockstone at the top. A red C3 protects the middle of the chimney and a .75 C4 up higher.
I recommend having two ea. of #1, #2 C4 for this route as the bottom half eats cams.
I broke it down into 4 sections:
1. Ramp #1 (5.3 G)
2. The vertical wall (5.4 G)
3. Ramp #2 (5.3 PG-13)
4. Chimney (5.5 G)
Chimney was a blast! Fun moves to pull out and around chockstone at the top. A red C3 protects the middle of the chimney and a .75 C4 up higher.
I recommend having two ea. of #1, #2 C4 for this route as the bottom half eats cams.
I broke it down into 4 sections:
1. Ramp #1 (5.3 G)
2. The vertical wall (5.4 G)
3. Ramp #2 (5.3 PG-13)
4. Chimney (5.5 G)
Added: 2009-06-09