There and Back Again - 5.8

The descent is a little sketchy. From the top of the climb scramble west and down to a bushy area w/ a pine tree. There is a sling on this tree, apparantly added by Dowww. About 20' below this tree is a bolted rappel anchor. Be careful moving down to the bolts. Do not rappel from the tree as there is a ton of loose rock between the tree and the bolted anchor. We didn't know about the bush rappel station that can be used for the second rappel, but wish we did. There is another rappel station about 180' below the bolts consisting of some very hollow plates and a nut. Very, very scary. Lots of groaning from the plates when you load the rope. If you use this station bring some new webbing as the existing stuff is looking pretty old. We didn't have anything long enough to re-thread. If we had known about the other station we would have used it. I would rather do the walk off of the Painted Bowl than ever use this rappel station. R rating is just for the 2nd rappel station.

Not overly impressed. None of the pitches offer any sustainability. The short face on the 4th pitch is the most interesting, but short lived at that. The descent tree mentioned in Handren's book is gone. We descended after the 5th pitch to the bottom of the Painted bowl where there is a significant tree, albeit a ways from the edge. We left rappel tat on one of the sturdy limbs. Tons of loose rock, so pay attention on this rappel. If you swing a little to your right, you will find a bush rappel (decent shape in 2008). With double 60m, you will make it down from there (200'). If not, there is another rappel utilizing some scary shit about 100' down.

Thanks John!!

i found the anchors on the first two pitches to be inadequate- thankfully the stance was solid for belaying the second. the upper three pitches though, are spectacular at the grade and not be missed....

Led pitch 1, 3 and 4 combined. Did it in 4 pitches. Very awesome!