Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse : Lost Horse Wall : Bird on a Wire
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Bird on a Wire - 5.10a
Average Rating : 4.32 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (44)
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Rock (Trad)
3
Thin to 2.5", gear anchors
360
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Description:
Excellent three-pitch climb; can be done in two. More so face climbing with good crack pro. A short first pitch leads up to spacious belay ledge. Possible to belay there or continue on. Second pitch starts up crack that leads up to the black patina plates, then to the prominent right arching thin crack that has a long section previously protectable only by stoppers that gave the name to the route (if you fall you fly like a bird), passing two closely placed bolts. Set belay near or above the end of the right arching crack. Try not to cris-cross with parties on The Swift to the left or on Dappled Mare to the right. Two or three possible ways to continue to the top, all rated about the same. Just pick one that wouldn't lead to crossing ropes with other parties.Note: Originally, there was only 1 bolt protecting the crux, which has since been replaced, along with the addition of a slightly higher bolt placed without consent of the FA party. If you choose to belay at the two closely spaced bolts, be aware of the sparse pro at the start of the resulting next pitch and a possible factor 2 fall or a fall directly onto the belayer.
Descent Options:
Walk off to climber's right down main gully.
Submitted by: graniteboy on 2001-12-01
Last Modified: 2008-01-15
Views: 2330
Route ID: 6213
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44 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 44 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
blue sky, warm rock, happy to be here.
awsome.
Added: 2012-02-19
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Bird on a Wire
Very fun... it intersects Dappled Mare though... so you can have traffic.
Added: 2011-12-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Bird on a Wire
Great route. Combined with Dappled Mare for two laps on the wall before finishing off a short winter day back at Intersection Rock. Very warm south facing wall. Second pitch is awesome. Crux is a shallow finger crack right above an intermittent belay that I passed up to set up a gear belay when it intersected Dappled Mare. I prefer the right crack towards the top for the finish. Makes for another decent pitch that way. With Joe K.
Added: 2011-12-11
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Soft for grade
If you can climb at the grade, don't bother roping up for the first "pitch", flip flops and gear still in our bags was fine
Added: 2011-10-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Sweet Moves
Way soft but really fun climbing. I would say the bolted belay is in a great place for taking falls on your belayer. If you belay from the large ledge after the arching crack and then lead to where the to cracks converge about 50 feet above the bolted belay you can avoid a factor 2 and I think it splits up better that way. Watched a guy take a good size whipper after the crux and almost land on his belayer. Soft for the grade.
Added: 2011-03-25
