Routes : North America : Mexico : Nuevo León : El Potrero Chico : Crescent Moon Buttress : Crescent Moon Buttress
Crescent Moon Buttress - 5.10a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Description:
6 pitches of mostly moderate, sometimes loose, climbing with one section of 10a. (you can easily french free this section). Follow the directions in Potrero Ed's book. Park just before the gate. Get well off the road as cement trucks rumble by quite often. The Crescent Moon is visible as a big hole in the buttress to the right of the road. Hike up to the foot of the buttress and the line is obvious enough, trending off to the right. Climb the first two pitches to just above the moon and drop back down into the saddle. The next pitch starts off to the left. This is the 10a pitch. (sometimes their are bees here). Step off the saddle to start the pitch. If you can't do the moves, simply clip a runner to the first bolt, stand up in it and clip the next bolt. After that it's easy again. Finish the pitch and eventually get to the top of the detached spire accross from the last two pitches to the summit. Rap down to the saddle, LEAVE YOUR ROPE IN THE ANCHORS. Do not pull your rope at this time. Take out your other rope and lead the next pitch out of the saddle to a belay even with the top of the detached spire. Be sure you bring the two ends of the rap rope up with you and tie them off to the belay accross the void from the spire. Finish the last pitch, rap down to the belay across from the top of the spire and rig your tyrolean. Slide accross to the hanging anchor above the little shrine. If you have more that two in your party someone will have to get back onto the top of the spire. From here pull your tyrolean and rap down to your right if you are facing the anchor. Find the next hanging rap anchor at the same level with the saddle and pull your ropes to here. Do a 60m rappel from here and you will be able to rap past much crappy, steep, choss that you would have to negotiate if you just rapped from the top of the spire, which you can do. Scree surf back around to the beginning of the route to get your shoes, drive back to the potrero and have yourself a SOL.
Submitted by: drewnobi on 2005-11-08
Views: 1885
Route ID: 71596
Most Recent Photos (See all 13 photos)
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3 Ascents Recorded
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Onsight ascent by:
A totally awesome (and long) day
Oh my goodness. What a great day and a great adventure. If you are looking for a really fun adventure with very moderate climbing, do CMB. A ten mile drive from Hidalgo off dirt roads, you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. The approach is better if you can find the trail (marked by cairns) but ok if you don't. You are better off in boots and bring a pair of leather gloves if you have them. There are cacti and things with thorns EVERYWHERE. Once you get to the base of the climb, don't let the seemingly high first bolt scare you off. The climb is very well bolted on every pitch. Pitches 1 and 2 are face climbs, mild and well protected. Pitch three was more of a scramble, I think there was only 1 bolt. You down climb a bit to get to the base of Pitch 4, the 10a. It's only hard leaving the ground and through the first three bolts. I do believe that you could french free as required. After another scramble, you have to rappel into the next two climbs. (This is where you set up the tyrolean traverse). The next two pitches are very mild (although look intimidating from the top of the rappel). We set up a tyrolean traverse, did a pendulum rap to the chains way out on the face and then did a two rope rap to the ground. It's a very daunting descent. Again, cacti everywhere and very difficult footing on a super steep scree slope. After the scree you will see the trail back to the base of the climb to retrieve your belongings. We did it as 4 parties of 2 and we took all day (started climbing at 10AM and returned to the car at 6PM). We were all fast climbers, but, with so many of us the raps took a long time. A great climb, a pretty crappy descent.
Added: 2011-11-13
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es un pedo la bajada pero sta bien,, recomendable
Witnessed by: poncho ochoa
Added: 2006-01-07
Added: 2006-01-07
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No comment
Witnessed by: Steven Bozard
Added: 2004-12-16
Added: 2004-12-16
