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arete - 5.12a

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
camalot smalls to 2.5 and some healty nuts
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Description:

ARETE: Go to the base of the main wall by descending froom the southwest saddle thru a steep gully Watch out for the big plates of rock that will crush a small dog. On your right is a chimney that also has three or four routes. On your left you will pass some blocky moderates ascended by the great lisa Foster Please buy her hiking guide to Rocky. Her guide will save you time, as well as being an excellent book. (P1) At the base of MINI D is four choices covered in other routes. I reccomend a variation climb drectly up passing sicko bolts on hard face on the left past ledge and tree at ledge.Placing nuts small cams. About ten feet above the ledge is a bolt clip and pass buldge to left then ascending the excellent crack to a two bolt anchor. On the out side of the middle ledge on the left. Belay from two bolt anchors. 50m 5.9 (P2) Ascend straight up placing a .5 camalot and ascending to the bolt line that follows the beautiful arete. You wil need a couple of medium nuts and small cam or two Or be bold and go sporty to two bolt anchor below to small overhang. Retro bolt of existing bolts only. The old 1/4 inch hangers are in a small alcove at base of this pitch 30m 12a/b old school 11+ (P3) Climb directly up and left need #3 camalot down to .3camalot for this pitch interesting climb move up and left thru elephant ears cracks and great jugs to a two bolt anchor at the top. 30m 5.9 Descend on back of Mini D Cl 4 of two 60M raps to the base or rap to middle ledge as I do and Hike out from there. Retro A.Mason P.Freshour FFA ?Gary Sapp? second and third pitch? Matt Fanning flashed the old route on TR after a sick airy traverse from 10D to set up arete William Mcgee and Amason FFA of first pitch Third might have been FFA by Amason but who knows? TOPO of MINI D submitter to Gillet for next book. good route

Submitted by: amason on 2006-09-23
Views: 800
Route ID: 79879

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
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Red Point Red Point ascent by: amason on 2003-09-24 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This one is hard

Witnessed by: mcgee William
Added: 2003-09-24