Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Calgary : Nanny Goat : Coire Dubhe area : Beautiful Century
Beautiful Century - 5.10a
Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Premier Sponsor:
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Brian Spear, 2007
Rock (Sport)
G
7
All bolted
755
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Description:
This is a multi-pitch route on the right side of Nanny Goat Buttress just left of the winter route "Coire Dubh" and left of the routes "Less Art, More Pop" and "The Bell Route" - as described in the new "Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. "Beautiful Century" is a moderate multi-pitch route that is fully bolted. It was established ground up.Approach:
Park as per Kid Goat and walk in. Stay low in the valley until below the large drainage between Nanny Goat and Goat slabs (Not the Kid Goat descent). Hike up the drainage on trails at first then on rock slabs until the waterfall. Angle up and left about 40 meters until a dead tree. This is where "Less Art, More Pop" and "The Bell Route" start. Follow the wall down hill another 50m to a steep slab. Above the slab a corner rises to a large tree; the slab and corner are the start of the route "Beautiful Century".
The climb
1. 55m, 5.8 (11 bolts). Climb the slab to the corner (rappel anchor). At the top of the corner climb up and left to belay on the higher of two ledges.
2. 40m, 5.10a (9 bolts, 1 fixed piton). Climb up and right to a difficult mantle at the second bolt. Continue up then traverse left along a seam to a break. Climb easily up and right to a short left facing corner and a bolted and chained belay below a small roof.
3. 30m, 5.7 (6 bolts). Pass a small roof on the right then angle right to a head wall From the third bolt climb right then up and left to a bolt above a slab. Climb up slabs and headwalls before stepping left to a chain belay below a treed ledge.
4. 15m, 3rd class. Scramble up on slabs to a bolt belay at the left end of the large treed ledge. It is possible to follow the ledge right and drop into “Coire Duhb” and scramble down to the base.
5. 40m, 5.9 (10 bolts). Climb up along bolts towards a small overhang traversing left under it, almost to the large right facing corner, then up to a bolt belay on a small ledge below an overhang.
6. 25m, 5.8 (6 bolts). Pass the overhang on the right and weave up to a hanging belay.
7. 25m, 5.9 (5 bolts, 1 fixed piton). Continue up to the top of the large right facing corner where the wall gets steep at a bolt. Step right and climb the undercut wall to a crack right of the second headwall bolt. Continue up slabs to a ledge then a layback feature to a fixed piton below a small roof. Pass the roof to a bolted belay on a small ledge. Either rappel from here or angle right 10m to scree and a tree belay.
Descent Options:
The descentTop out and walk down to the drainage between Nanny goat and Kid goat or rappel with a single 60m rope.
Submitted by: rockguide on 2007-04-29
Views: 1672
Route ID: 84996
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great! !
Really great climb. High quality rock, good moves, well protected. I thought the slab first pitch harder than 5.8 and also the 5th- 6th pitches more 5.9 but overall excellent. Wish there were more great multi pitch sport Ross like this around in the bow valley.
Added: 2014-08-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Great climb!!
One of my favorite climbs so far.
Added: 2011-07-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Quality route
Like others said, this is a must do route for the area
Added: 2008-08-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Beautiful Century
Brian did a super job with this route. Everyone thinks so. He does a great job period and is putting quite a few up from the ground throughout the Bow Valley. Good to have some new targets to aim for.
Added: 2008-04-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Beautiful Century
absolutely great climb!!! :)
Added: 2007-09-19
