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The Flake - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
1
#1 slider nut useful to protect lower bulge, otherwise R/X potential from 40 feet. This gear at top.
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Awkward and difficult to protect bulge on lower half. Small slider nut useful if you want to keep off the deck in event of fall on this section. On the FFA lead, I trundled the beloved "Flake" from ledge at 2/3 height, making it a tad safer (??). Top 20 feet of route (above stance) has magical stemming for the avid enthusiast. This is a serious lead and best saved for TR unless you don't mind sticking your neck out on 12A.

Submitted by: cragmar on 2007-05-05
Views: 898
Route ID: 85622

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cragmar on 2004-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars frosted flakes

necky route with difficult to place protection through bottom bulge. The top section above the ledge has magical stemming. This was a more enjoyable TR than lead due to awkward/inadequate protection.

Added: 2007-05-06