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duck for cover - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
3
6-7 #2's, dbl set the rest to #4
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This is an amazing route if you like hand cracks and face climbing. Mostly well protected, with just the right amount of spice. It gets all day shade so is a good warm weather choice. Pitch 1) 5.11 140' Climb fingers (5.10)in a straight in corner. Switch cracks to a hand crack thru a roof(5.10). Traverse 10' (5.9)and up a steepening hand crack(5.11) to a 2-bolt belay. Be careful to conserve #2 Camalots. This pitch can be split in two by belaying before or after the traverse. Pitch 2) 5.10 100' Scramble onto the ledge, and walk right around the pillar. Chimney behind the pillar, and step across to a fist to hand crack. From the ledge atop the hand crack walk left to a 2-bolt belay. Pitch 3) 5.11 80' Mantle a hollow flake, and climb a crack to the bolt. A couple of bouldery moves bring you to one final hand crack to the summit. Bring all your #2s for this pitch as well. Descent: Rap 1: From the summit rap with 2 ropes to the top of P1. Rap 2: 2 ropes to the ground. Location Approach: Park as for Earth Angel. From Flag, Go right on Jordon Rd. then left on Park Ridge to parking lot. Duck for Cover is located on the north side of 5667' Butte, near Ripoff Rock (ref: Toula guide). 5667' Butte is the long E-W running butte north east of the parking lot. From the parking lot hike back along the road until you see Jim Thompson Trail on the left. Hike east on Jim Thompson Trail. The trail will immediately cross a wash. Continue along the trail until the next major wash. Take a left and hike up this second wash for 1 mile as it passes under the east side of 5667' Butte. At the east end of the butte, the wash splits twice. Take a left both times, skirting along the north face of the butte. You are now facing west. When the wash starts to go steep uphill you'll see a tower detached from the main cliff on the top. Duck for Cover is on the north face of this tower. The main wash takes you very close to the start of the route. DFC starts in a finger crack just left of a water chute/gully. Look for the obvious crack splitting a steep bulge 120 ft. up. Approach Time: 45 min - 1 hour GPS: 34,53.711,-111,45.683

Submitted by: markguycan on 2008-11-27
Views: 972
Route ID: 97173

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bootyhead on 2008-03-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars DFC

steep and continuous. You will use 6 or 7 # 2 camalots. Very shady.

Added: 2010-03-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: markguycan on 2008-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars serious!

enduro burn at the top of P1, mltiple bouldery cruxes on P3, P2 not a gime either!

Added: 2008-12-08