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children of the sun - 5.12d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
8
full rack plus bolts
900
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

I only did the first 4 pitches before it started to rain. Besides, the 5th pitch dihedral would take a set of double cams I didn't have. After getting beta from Arno, I set out to rope solo this behemoth. 1st pitch 8 bolts/#2 camalot, green red alien, #4 camalot (essential). 2nd pitch is all bolted. Thin hard 5.11. 3rd pitch bolted, last portion, bold and very thin 11+. A yellow alien is nice. 4th pitch traverse, single set of cams and 4 bolts. These 4 pitches were fabulous, with long clean fall potential. I'll return with a partner to do the rest.

Descent Options:

walk off, or rappel route. I chose the toughest place to rappel from-top of pitch 4. Tramming skills necessary

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2009-01-04
Views: 879
Route ID: 97555

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2013-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Finally got to do the whole thing

My bail biner on the third pitch was still there. Probably did the second ascent after Arno.
A decent route. The 4th traverse pitch is great but dirty. the fifth tradland pitch is a bear. Really overhanging with fiddly gear that talks back when you jerk it. I french freed part. The upper pitches are a bit crusty. It is probably possible to pull through at about 11 C A1. The top part of the fifth pitch is an aid ladder (kind of--one chopped bolt.) The last pitch is up and right and through some laurel and briar. The 5.5 X section should not cause concern

Added: 2013-11-15