Routes : North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff-Lake Louise : Stanley Headwall : Stanley Headwall : Nemesis
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Nemesis - WI6
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Ice
PG13
4
Genrealy good ice screws
500
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Description:
The grade 6 climb that everyone knows, when first climbed free one of the hardest in the world, still diffcult and varies from year to year, most times climbed in 4 pitchs but has been done in 2 with 70m ropes, crux is reported on the 3rd pitch but I have found that the 2nd pitch is more taxing with not as good gear and very steep with funky bits, thrid pitch has many roofs and some chimneysDescent Options:
Rap, there are bolts at half way ledge
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-03-17
Views: 798
Route ID: 98275
Most Recent Photo
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1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | WI6 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Wicked hard route
This route is amazing, one of my hardest and most sustained yet, I lead both pitch 2 at 55m WI6 and pitch 3 at WI6 in which I was burnt afterwards. I have found that pitch 2 is the crux in witch it is very taxing with few good rests and some gear hard to get with some very funky ice. Pitch 3 has some very steep and overhanging sections however on the whole it is mainly fat with the odd thin section.
I have found that for this route you really need to bring a good amount of screws if you are starting in the WI 6 range
I have found that for this route you really need to bring a good amount of screws if you are starting in the WI 6 range
Added: 2009-03-17
