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Ascent Notes for: Dazed and Confused - 5.10b Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lovesclimbing on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Death pitch was GOOD

This route is not a great route, the crux pitch is more of a 10a if not yam 5.9, the bottem pitchs are quite easy and no where near a yam 5.8 nor are they runout. Pitch 8 is quite good as well and for the most part ok climbing. The crux is somewhat short for the pitch with a couple of beefy bolts on it with the only troublesome part being the begging with poor pro off the blocks. I did the Death pitch as for my tick list and I do enjoy my choss but I did find some ok gear, lots of rope drag and I went up the right hand corner to top out, my partner who seconded both the crux and DP found the death pitch by far the hardest and scarrest he has ever done. I did not use the single pin anchor (its sad when you see it) but went about 5ft furth it a good stance that protects the belayer, I made a chockstone, a #3 and a micro cam off high right for quite a good anchor. I did take a screamer for the pin on the crux of the roof but found the top of the DP harder.

Added: 2009-07-20

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