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Ascent Notes for: Father Knows Best - 5.9 Average Rating = 3.38/5 Average Rating : 3.38/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just a Little Too Hot Today

I lead this route again just so that I could compare it to WOSL, which I had just climbed. The actual climbing is about the same, maybe even a little easier. The extra bolt makes this route a whole lot easier mentally. It may just be due to the fact that I have climbed this route several times already, but even the bulge before the first bolt seemed quite easy. There was a little section about 20 feet from the end that was a little tough due to a lack of good holds. Otherwise, it is a fun little route and I would recommend leading it.

Added: 2012-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2012-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars that ain't no 5.8

Well, the moon and stars came into alignment and I felt weirdly compelled to lead this today. Worked out fine but it's a heady trip for sure. Would have enjoyed it a good bit more and felt less like I had just decided to roll the dice if there were a couple more bolts, particularly one between the last bolt and the anchor - that section is kinda hard, or at least tenuous. There are parts of this route that actually feel like featured 5.8 sections of say, the Pulpit, but there are many more moments of pure slabbin' and desperately hoping your foot will stick or you will face a really long fall. I seemed to remember more contiguous features to work with from my prior TR but in reality it's at best several full-on moves between things that actually seem like edges, bulges or marginal flat spots. Started freaking out a bit imagining what a fall would have looked like here... 5.9R

Added: 2012-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Lead To End The Day

After climbing Autumn Speaks, I had a little time before the park closed so I decided to head up this route again. It seemed much easier this time around. I still started below the right angling crack, placing several cams as I climbed. At the end of the crack there is a ledge with a small bulge above it. I climbed over the bulge and headed to the first bolt. I took a mostly straight line to the next bolt over some flaky rock that provided good holds when it didn't break off. The climbing above the second bolt seemed a little more difficult but was still not that bad. I did not use a running belay but it may be wise to do so. It sure was nice to be back at Stone.

Added: 2011-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Felt Tougher Than 5.8

I started on the small crack that is slightly left of the line. It will hold smaller cams if needed. From there, I just followed a mostly straight line through the two bolts up to the rappel anchors at the top. This route is a little hairy for a 5.8 and should be climbed with caution. The climbing really isn't that bad for a slab route and having the second bolt does give the climber more confidence. If your nerves get the best of you, it is possible to traverse right and finish on Entrance Crack.

Added: 2011-05-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2011-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not again...

Worst idea ever. Looming thunderstorms. Ground fall....bolt....ground fall.....bolt....no holds...ground fall....rain...bail right in last 8 feet. I'm counting it though. Hardest 5.8 I've ever done....ever. Oh, started left in crack.

Added: 2011-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-01-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun TR

Easy to set up on the bolt rap anchors but wouldn't really want to lead it. some small pro near the bottom, then groundfall potential before the first bolt and again before the second bolt, and again above that... you get the idea.

Thin slab moves and harder than 5.8 for sure. Creative routefinding.

Added: 2011-01-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: tlannin on 1997-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Harder than I expected

I've climbed many routes at Stone, and this is at least a 5.9+. Maybe it seemed harder because it was hot the day I climbed.

Added: 2011-01-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jsj7051 on 2009-12-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars ?

This route is Okay on toprope . It's harder than any slab 5.9 on the mountian. Fun though . Used the small crack to the left to start. Don't think I would ever lead it , but a good way to get use to the harder slabs higher up.

Added: 2009-12-12

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