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Ascent Notes for: The Deviate - 5.10a Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00/5

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  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Gnarly

The first pitch was a cake walk. The start of the second pitch was more easy but run out climbing for the first 70ft. Mostly 5.7/8 with an occasional .10 move thrown in. Then it began... The route pulled onto a small ledge with only one good placement. The only way to go was right then up through a series of gigantic 3/4in vibrating flexing flakes. No reliable pro and 5.10 climbing brought me to a blank slab where a bulge on dime edges had to be pressed out. With thick lichen crunching under foot and solid 5.10 slab ahead, you then climb only another 25ft to the first good protection in about 60ft. Dont blow the top out.

After the first pitch, you can climb up the crack above and traverse up and right to intersect with Psychedelic Tree. This variation is what's shown in the Carville guide and is the way to go if one values their health.

Added: 2011-12-04

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