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Ascent Notes for: Bulimia - 5.12c Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-09-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Will update after RP

Got on this about a year ago when I was just breaking into the 12c grade. Couldn't do a single one of the crux moves, and due to the location of the crux couldn't even cheat past to the finish. Came back today after having sent nine 5.12c's and feeling like I have a pretty decent grasp on the difficulty of the grade to give this another try. Still couldn't do the last of the crux moves (really big throw to an edge), but was able to do all the rest. This thing could possibly go at HARD 5.12d but more likely at 5.13a. I suspect that the FA was more of a boulderer than a sport climber, hence the intense sandbag. The 3 move crux on this climb is probably around V6 in difficulty, so a strong boulderer would likely not see the entire route as being super hard, but from a sport climber's perspective a crux so hard and so short just doesn't belong in the 5.12 grade, especially when you throw in a hard intro and a hard exit.

For comparison, the most bouldery 12c's I've sent are Grinch and Flinch which are 3 and 4 bolts long respectively. Both climbs have bouldery cruxes at the end with each clocking in at around V4-V5. Looking at Grinch the route breaks down into a 3 bolt 5.11+ intro, to a V5 run to the chains. So far I don't know of anyone calling Grinch soft, just bouldery. When comparing Grinch to Bulimia, Bulimia has an intro of similar difficulty but one REALLY hard move which makes the whole intro harder, Bulimia has a harder crux (as well as less moves in the crux) and is quite a bit longer. Therefore if you take Grinch as the benchmark for near-vertical, bouldery, 12c this climb is clearly a notch or two harder. I'll get a full opinion of the whole thing once I send, but I don't expect it to go down too soon.

*Update* 11/30/13
Got on it again today and was able to figure out the crux beta and actually clip the chains. Still a massive hangdogging effort and no send, but it feels doable now. Two possible beta's, one bear hugs the arete and might be easier (than the alternate V6 beta) for people around 6 feet tall or so, the beta I used is around V6 and goes on the right side of the arete on incredibly tiny crimps and a slopey compression sidepull ending in a deadpoint to a 3 finger pocket. The V6 crux breaks down to 5 moves, and utilizes a pretty crucial kneebar. Still feels at least 13a, harder moves than the crux of SuperCruiser (though as a whole this route is less pumpy) and harder than anything on House of Pain.

Added: 2013-09-30

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