Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Smeagol -
5.9
Average Rating : 5.00/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
Comments: Show | Hide
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
great route. runout can be managed.
Back in the day (only a year ago), the magic clip hold was never chalked, and so this runout to bolt 3 was very risky. Beta spoiler for doing it safely. As you approach bolt 3, if you are fairly tall, right-hand is low on a sidepull or undercling jug, left hand clip sbolt 3 high. If you are shorter, move up and use the (chalked-up) pocket left of the bolt.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
Added: 2012-04-17







