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Ascent Notes for: Smeagol - 5.9 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67/5

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  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars seemed fine

focus on climbing not on fear... but it likely could be improved for leaders at this grade

Added: 2013-10-27

  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Smeagol

Another runout warm up.

Added: 2013-07-08

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route. runout can be managed.

Back in the day (only a year ago), the magic clip hold was never chalked, and so this runout to bolt 3 was very risky. Beta spoiler for doing it safely. As you approach bolt 3, if you are fairly tall, right-hand is low on a sidepull or undercling jug, left hand clip sbolt 3 high. If you are shorter, move up and use the (chalked-up) pocket left of the bolt.

As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.

Added: 2012-04-17

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