Ascent Notes for: Rubicon - 5.10d Average Rating : 4.65/5

Coming back for the RP.

Bad to the bone route. I did the traverse and just walked a #2 BD across... worked fine. I think you want to have some gear doing it. I did at least. My second worked out a fixed nut at the crux-- needed to be done, but he thought it was something I placed (sorry bro) so he had to take there, haha. Funny story. No way this is 10d, but it is a FINE route.

long pitch when you do the traverse start. followed my girl who walked it.

Great climb that is really long. You don't really need to place any gear in the horizontal as it is pretty casual.

Came back for another try and got the redpoint today - am super happy. My idea of racking all my finger-sized stoppers on their own draws worked very well. In fact, after finishing the easy traverse part of the (indirect) start, I used only stoppers on the entire finger-crack. I also TRed the direct start - its hard and R.

Did not sprint the 1st crux and pumped out, foolish mistake, everything else was clean

2 falls on great gear, super fun

awesome line

TR'd the direct start clean after I led it.

After following clean, I had some hope for the redpoint. But no, the pump-factor denied me and I took a fall instead. But, hear me Rubicon, this is not over! I'll be back, and next time I'll rack a bunch of finger-sized nuts seperately each on their own draws. So, yeah, the finger crack at and above the crux eats nuts shockingly well. My next repoint attempt will be with a much lighter rack. Oh, and yeah, I'd call this a solid 10d, and a long one at that by JT standards.

Awesome climb