Ascent Notes for: Beulahs Book - 5.9 Average Rating : 4.31/5

The corner pitch is awesome. Did the bolted variation on the second pitch which was pretty good. Linked up with Solar slab above.

2nd pitch chimney section is well protected with the bolt, a #4 and a #5 cam. I brought a 6" too and made use of it at the exit of the chimney. The slightly awkward moves just above/after exiting the chimney were for us the crux of the climb. The dihedral was super fun with great protection and easy stances every 5 ft for placing pro. Though I had triples of some cams, doubles in the 3/4"-1.5" range were plenty. Great bolted anchor at the top of the second pitch. (we belayed from a trad anchor in the shade of the chimney at the top of the first pitch). If running 3 and 4 together, avoid the Pitch 3 anchor bolts altogether to reduce rope drag.

The 1st pitch goes left of the big chimney - look for a single bolt 30 feet up. 5.8 variation to the left of the flare is a blast, nice exposure and fun moves. There is a rap station on the 2nd pitch now after 100 ft, can easily climb to the next station at 160 ft, cliping 1 bolt along the way. The rest of the climb is OK, but not as exciting.

makes a good linkup with sunflower.

If the second pitch were on the ground with rap anchors installed, people would be gang-banging the shit out of it. As for gear, a #4 is a must-have; a #5 wouldn't go unused. First and last pitch are really ho-hum, but there are beautiful views to be had at the top and it is blessedly sunny to boot.

Varied climbing. Enjoyed it. I led the first pitch, my friends led the second and third. The chimney is not very hard - but interesting. The lay back section on 2nd pitch is awesome.

did the chimey to layback instead of the arete variation this time. was great.

We began the 2nd pitch with the arete variation, which offered some balancy challenge and superb exposure, before working back into the corner for a sublime finish to the pitch. It was the best of both worlds. Added the two-pitch "Going Nuts" route at the top for bonus round of climbing.

Hung out trying to establish myself in the chimney; wish I would have chimneyed from the bottom instead of stemming my way up. The arching lieback crack is real good.

Really enjoyed the day with Joe. We used Beulahs to access Sunflower...I had yet to do Beulahs, so took the 2nd pitch (arete version)....fun times...the lieback looks much worse from the angle you get on the arete than it really is....thought both the arete and lieback were closer to 5.8 than 5.9. Fun pitch.