Ascent Notes for: Moondance *** - 5.11c Average Rating : 4.17/5

but it was rad

this one gave me a couple runs for my money. As others point out, a nice techy route, with some stemming. I wass really proud to hang the draws on this one.

Balance and move through the first two bolts. Techy footwork in the dihedral. Well protected and easy clipping except for the second bolt, which I thought was heady and thin. I really liked the style.

cool, perfect temps and it didn't feel too bad.

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Some old guy who'd clearly climbed at smith since lycra was in style recommended this route to me. I had stupidly asked him what routes he suggested, and he jabbed a finger at moondance with a shit-eating grin on his face. He was jovial and avuncular, so I pretty much bought this routine--hook, line, and sinker.

Holy shit.

Hardest. 11c. Ever.

The bottom: thin and delicate. Fairly run out. A good rest in the middle to very strenuous stemming moves in a shallow dihedral. Very, very athletic climbing. Maybe I could see this route being 11c if you'd climbed at smith since a volcano formed the park and saber-toothed tigers chewed on dodos, but I count this send (third try, by the way) as one of my proudest. My arms *and* legs were blown after this route.

Old bastard, wherever you are, much thanks for the suggestions.

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Damn freaking hard for the grade. I was sooo happy and proud of myself to get to the top of this thing on lead.

hard

Best all-around route at Smith.