I really enjoyed this route, quite varied for Jtree. Ran the roof out which protected well with a #3 C4 at the top. Follow easy cracks up to the face. Pass a couple of spinners on the upper face. With Joe K, finishing out a day out in Wonderland.
Still THE best 5.8 I've ever done. Beats out Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite
Wow! After a few years since doing this route, (and considerably a stronger climber) I thought I would drag a buddy of mine up this route. I was amazed at just how unique, challenging, and varied the route actually was. This included offwidth, stemming, laybacks, and slab. The chimney can be protected w a smaller ~.75 ish cam and a #5 c4 would totally protect the moves to the exit. Remember to extend to reduce rope rag later. I only brought cams but found that there were prob more hex/nut placements throughout. At the top just trust those feet and go! It seems super runout but really it's not too bad and would only be bad (ie cheese grater) if you had rope out for the clips and fell. We split it into 2 pitches for easier communication/coaching. Rap off the rings on the north side of the rock and enjoy This wonderful route.