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Ascent Notes for: The Consolation - 5.9 Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good times

great route. I managed to get off route on pitch 2 where you are supposed to follow the left facing dihedral to the sloping ledge. However the variation that I followed was classic with 5.8 hand jamming up a different left facing dihedral to about 15 feet of unprotected OW (5.8 at the top). Then you have to sling the pillar you have been climbing, swing around the outside (holy exposure!), and transition back to the regular route. I am sure the route has been done this way before, definitely adds spice. The double corner crack pitch is the reason why I am not shy about driving 4+ hours to Tahquitz for a weekend trip.

Added: 2012-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great

Great crack climbing. Some loose rock.

Added: 2011-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: henrytwin_m on 2011-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun day of crack climbing

Climbed with Tom Keefer and John Loomis. I led the first pitch, followed 2 pitches of Constellation in 1 rope length finished at the 1st belay for The Consolation. I thought the second pitch of this route was harder than the crux pitch with the 2 cracks. Over all a great route, one worth going back to do again.

Added: 2011-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

short and sweet. Fell on crux moves, had to come down and redo it :(

Added: 2011-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars afds

af

Added: 2010-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 1992-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic

beautiful

Added: 2010-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Reaganchung on 2009-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tricky

the double crack thing was hard for 5.9 imo. harder than anything on whodunit. Finished direct on the 10a roof.

Added: 2009-08-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scottydo on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb!

This climb was a lot better than I thought it was going to be. Jumped on here because there were a couple guys already on Whodunnit. Can be done in 5 pitches but we did it in 7 because of rope drag. (added two mini pitches) There was never a spot that I felt sketched out, great hand jams and convenient jugs when the jams run out. Favorite pitch was the 3rd pitch with the double cracks. Defnitely worth doing.

Added: 2009-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: boulder_rich on 2008-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Climb!

Great climb. Greg lead, I followed (good thing too). This was a little past my limit since I'm not a great crack climber. There were two cruxes on the 3rd pitch and 4th pitch. I managed to fall a few times on each one, but got it in the end. It seemed a touch harder than 5.9 for those sections. But what do I know...

The most difficult part was finding our packs at the bottom of the route after the de-proach. Lots of bush wacking. Definitely sore today, and that has little to do with the faceplant I did into a prickly bush.

CLIMB ON!

Added: 2008-10-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregory_huey on 2008-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A Challenging 5.9

Rich and I were apparently the only party on this route today. I should have read some of the beta here first - instead just went by what the guidebook said. Didn't know that one could do the first pitch of Constellation in place of bush-whacking up the ridge, nor did I know this route had a direct finish. I had done Whodunit before, so I decided to finish on Long Climb, but that made routefinding tricky. I found the crux vertical dihedral finger & thin-hands crack very tricky to lead and nearly fell. It felt alot harder than the 5.9 sections on Whodunit. About 2/3rds of the way up the crux section my OP Link cam definitely paid for itself - I needed to slot some pro quickly and keep moving (its exactly this sort situation I got it for). Anyway, we finished the route just as it was getting dark (Rich followed the last pitch with his headlamp).

Added: 2008-10-26

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