Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Crackin' Up - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 3.62/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2010-05-11
(View Climbing Log)
easy crack climb
can do this from Turkey shoot anchors, bu beawre of a swing if you fall. There was a fixed piece of gear in the crack to protect a swing for the first 2/3rds
Added: 2010-05-11
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: nwykyankee21 on 2008-06-06
(View Climbing Log)
all sewn up
great little route, takes gear really well if your first starting off at lead trad, you can be on top rope from turkey chute as a little safety precausion.
Added: 2010-01-09
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2008-08-03
(View Climbing Log)
one of my earliest trad leads
This is a great route for new leaders as it a) takes gear on demand, b) is mostly move/stance/move/stance c) isn't terribly long. Mostly need stuff in the .75-2 or 3 camalot size but I got a few other things in there too. Almost fixed a .75 around the part where you turn the corner and traverse right the second time I got on it. The hardest part is probably traversing to the turkey shoot anchors as that can get a bit slick and is a sudden dramatic change from the style of the rest of the route.
Oh yea, there were also spider webs all over it. I had to use my nut tool to fold the funnels closed! I figure this pays me back for at least a few of the inopportune times the damn thing has stabbed me in the leg, gotten stuck on a rock or my harness in the meantime.
Recommended.
Oh yea, there were also spider webs all over it. I had to use my nut tool to fold the funnels closed! I figure this pays me back for at least a few of the inopportune times the damn thing has stabbed me in the leg, gotten stuck on a rock or my harness in the meantime.
Recommended.
Added: 2009-10-20
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Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: limeydave on 2008-12-07
(View Climbing Log)
versatile
glad i had the knieveltech beta, not sure i'd be able to do it without that.
the second night on this epic, we nearly bailed as we'd run out of food, but we pushed on and made it to the top - also rapping from the top of turkey shoot.
the second night on this epic, we nearly bailed as we'd run out of food, but we pushed on and made it to the top - also rapping from the top of turkey shoot.
Added: 2008-12-08
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: knieveltech on 2008-11-23
(View Climbing Log)
Very enjoyable
Excellent for the grade and one those rare routes at Pilot where the rock is good enough to take gear (in places anyway). The route eats #.5 to #1 cams (or in my case red link cams), only spotted a single small nut placement on the route although I expect it would eat hexes. A weird #5 placement high on the route protects the start of the traverse and avoids setting pro in choss. #1 cam placements in pods at the back of the roof protect the traverse to the anchors. Route climbed VERY well for the grade with excellent jams (fingers to fists), good laybacking, and a sweet knee lock for a no-hands rest. Feet are a little thin on the right side but it's all there. I would definitely suggest this route.
Warning: there's a very loose block marked with an x at about the halfway point. Avoiding it difficult though.
Warning: there's a very loose block marked with an x at about the halfway point. Avoiding it difficult though.
Added: 2008-11-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: MrMeticulous on 2007-11-26
(View Climbing Log)
Crack kills
A fun crack to mess around on. Easy to practice different techniques. I practically ran up it one time though, just to see...haha.
Added: 2008-10-02
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: erica on 2008-09-20
(View Climbing Log)
good climb
Really nice climb with lots of good gear. Bigger stoppers and hexes, .75 cams and up.
Added: 2008-09-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: MikeSaint on 2008-07-13
(View Climbing Log)
Decent crack at Pilot
Having done this route previously on top rope, today was the redpoint. I was shocked to have it dry.
The crack climbs fairly well with good hand jams, jugs off to the side or liebacking. Light rack: Up to 2, maybe #3 BD C4 cams for adequate protection. Larger hexes and the occasional stopper compliment well.
Top of the crack is dirty, at that is usually wet traverse to the Turkey Shoot anchors (right).
The crack climbs fairly well with good hand jams, jugs off to the side or liebacking. Light rack: Up to 2, maybe #3 BD C4 cams for adequate protection. Larger hexes and the occasional stopper compliment well.
Top of the crack is dirty, at that is usually wet traverse to the Turkey Shoot anchors (right).
Added: 2008-07-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Fun Factor |
Top Rope ascent by: jsj7051 on 2007-11-26
(View Climbing Log)
Great Crack
This is really a very versatile crack. Many ways to climb it. Good for practicing placing gear.We used rings at Turkey Shoot to TR and climb diff. ways ( liebacks, jambs,steming a little ) Big swing if you come off though but you should be OK. Don't know if it's a full 5.7
Added: 2007-11-26
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: gothcopter on 2007-09-02
(View Climbing Log)
Easy, fun and safe
Solid rock, and it eats gear like it's going out of style. This would be a good beginner lead.
Added: 2007-09-04