Ascent Notes for: War on Rugs - 5.10d Average Rating : 3.69/5

First tried to do this route with a friend and it was raining. Both of us had sent 12a's before but we couldn't get off the deck. Absolutely no friction!

Came back a few months later (when it was dry) and sent it first go. I probably made the start harder than it was. Saw someone do it after me and he made it look better. Stay left after you get on the headwall.

I hadn't been on War in several years and remembered always hating it...I guess that's because I wasn't a very good climber back then!! It is a good route and makes you think.

I guess so. At the upper end of that grade though. I wouldn't be exaggerating when I say I've gotten on easier 11's.

Bartoni and i worked it going direct to bad pinches in the cave, to set up for the jug right-hand sidepull on the cave's left edge. That sucked and felt 11a. This time, DP's beta shuffled the hands till left-hand is in the curved-edge sloper. Right-hand up to bad sloper, bump to immediately set the sidepull.

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The start surprised me.

Climbed TR right after Wife.... Will Lead next time

fun pumpy start to sustained climbing

I liked the start to these pair of climbs (my first 5.10d onsight ;)

Nice route- It was a great introduction to Reimers and to limestone climbing.