Ascent Notes for: Original Route (V 5.12c) - 5.12c popular Average Rating : 4.90/5

It appears bolts come and go on this thing. For me, there was a section on the second pitch with poor pro that I was unwilling to try and onsight. Furthermore, reading the notes on the internet could lead one to believe the route is soft. No way! In any case, the route is great. We went up to the upper dihedrals in 6 hurs, and then bailed in failing light. Already plans to go back and complete the climb. By the way, the loose pillar is still there, still bit scarey. Right off the belay too. Don't pro the thing.

absolutely stellar- not to be missed. regarding the pillar- its best to free this section, i placed a cam off left of it at the base, then went as high as possible before placing one cam at the top and climbed two 5.8ish moves to exit that section to solid gear. despite the thrumming noises, the pillar is more solid at the top than you'd expect. avoid the lower section and its quite tame. hung on the .11d pitches, pulled through on the two .12 pitches (my partner onsighted both red dihedral pitches!), and onsighted the rest! 6hrs on route, fairly casual despite the grade.

early 5th pitch, the loose pillar is EXTREMELY loose, able to move it with a cupped palm. we didn't feel safe loading cams in the cracks there so bailed. not sure if the pillar loosened over the past winter or not...

approach humping a 100+ lb el cap haul bag pushed 9 hours, getting all that aid gear and water for the slower climbing than free took an exhausting toll as well. we were extremely disappointed to turn back after that effort. if that pillar goes and there's a seam behind it, would love to make another effort at this route but on safer terms. that pillar was tipping right over the belay station 10 feet below...

Yep, yoo herd rite...we surpassed our expectations and made it up the wall in fine style, not falling and sleeping only on the firm ground below. 8hrs base to summit, 2 hours of rapping...YAHOO!

Ropegunned up by Josh. Had to hang in a few spots.

Did this with Nate in 16 hours car to car. The gear is: one set of nuts, One set of cams Metolius 0-3 and BD 0.5-3, 9 2' slings. Redpointed this route, including onsighting all of the upper pitches past Over the Rainbow Ledge. I used both of the 5.11 bypasses to the 5.12b pitches. I'll be back...

We did this fast (meaning we free climbed to 5.11 and french freed the rest--no ascenders) to get ready for some other routes. It's a fun ride done that way. I should get back there and try to free climb it, though.

awesome route, face cruxes, all with bolts. I did it with Ben Williams, who had done it before, and lead all the 5.11s so that I could get to the crux pitches fresh. I was incredibly psyched to get this one, and would definitely do it again. Oh, and I've noticed (asshole moment) that many of the ascents here say "onsite" for an aid ascent, so I should clarify in the most petty terms possible that this was an onsight free ascent. Yee fucking haw.

Three falls, but a quick redpoint.

My first wall. Mostly aided it though I did lead the easy free pitches in the dark which was exciting. I would love to return someday and free it.