Ascent Notes for: Crude Control - 5.12a Average Rating : 3.00/5

Some hard pulling of the start followed by some fun climbing.

it's a one move wonder, you get past the first bolt and you're in cake walk town.

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Well, pretty easy for that grade ! I was really surprised... The bouldering crux at the beginning is pretty interesting, but that's it... Not a really enjoyable route... But really think you are going to climb a 5.11 a ... It's really no more !

Just like the description, one hard move and it's over.

fun

- V8 - tomato juice is good for you

The crux is at the start then its a breeze form there.

Ascent

Where was the camera when I needed it? I am pretty sure that a hand/heelhook match on a right-hand sloper sidepull at first bolt is not part of the approved beta. Everyone I've seen on this route just bumps right hand to the next juggy sidepull. My telescopic arms were not working, so i did something rather funky. But hey, it worked!

I still wonder why this was made into a 5.12, when moving the first bolt a little bit to the right would have made it possible to start right at the big juggy flake (looks well-used, I am sure there are plenty of people climbing it that way) and make this route into a mellow 5.9...

Sure, the 2 moves at the start are interesting, but the rest of this route makes a joke of the 5.12 grade...