I did this one with "Twinkle Toes" Tom R. We alternated leads with the first pitch going to him. Overall, this is 5.fun climbing. The only tricky part was figuring out the stem box. Everything else was fun and non-threatening. Tons of stopper placements. We skipped the first rappel on the saddle descent route. The down climbing was slightly sketchy. Otherwise no problem. I was happy to find my pb&j sandwich intact in my backpack...I had hung it from the dead tree at the base!
Worth the hike. Good pro the whole way. Suggest small gear for the stem box, which seemed easy once we figured it out. Bulge above stem box seemed hardest - offwidth to sidepulling finger crack. Very nice but very slow team above us and so we ran out of water. We had 1 liter each, needed 2 in the August sun. Best suprise of the day - the slow team above us, offered us their last 1/2 cup of water - nice guys. We didn't take it since their leader was on the verge of passing out from dehydration.
Mainliner was worth the hike back to Sundance. Each pitched offered a different challenge--fun stemming, awkward bulge, steep finger crack, etc. Interesting descent and we got lucky with the weather yet again.
Anyone else do a tricky left facing dihedral to a small roof flake about 170 feet into the route? I thought that was the crux for sure! The stemming crux was fun and the finger crack crux above it was pumpy/balancy, sewed that one up. If you are like me and can't understand the guidebook's topos, just keep heading straight up the route and find belay ledges every 170 feet or so. There is descent from the true summit down the right (East?) side of the formation (not the saddle). Find a big pine with slings and make a 100 foot rappel to 4th class. 4th class down and left to another tree with slings, rappel 50 feet to gully. Traverse across the gully to a worn trail against the other formation and follow the trail to the bottom. The saddle descent looked easier but only if you don't summit.
Fired this one through the first time. Relatively straight-forward climbing. However, got sucked off on the pillar to the right of the standard start and turned a G-rated route into a R/X when I traversed back over.