Ascent Notes for: Exum Ridge - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 4.75/5

I used the Exum Guide shoes on the route (which I bought before I came out to WY) thinking they were made for it. Well, they suprisingly worked great and I never had to put the rock shoes on. Car to car in 15 hours. Went down the wrong gully on descent. Stay to skiers right.

very beautiful

our first alpine experience

My friend I climbed the route in the middle of the week and had to one else on the route. Good fun easy, fast, and good clean fun. An excellent option to reach the summit of the Grand.

Climbed w/ Todd Passey, started early from Lower Saddle. Lots of exposure! Windy, but beautiful summit!

left the car about 3.30 am, were at the saddle by 7.30 after getting a little lost and going straight up to the moraine (missed the trail). caught up to two teams on the upper exum that were pitching it out. soloed most of it except the turn on wall street, and the V-pitch. fun route. took our time getting down and after a short nap, the fun drive back to Bozeman.

This is the most fantastic alpine rock climb I've ever done so far. The Black Face is awesome. We simul-climbed most of it but I was happy we pitched that part out. I don't know if it was the altitude or climbing with a pack and the cold but it felt harder than 5.7 as the guidebook suggests.

We climbed the Full Exum Ridge starting off about four in the morning and making it back to camp before noon. Got a little bit of grapple snow but nothing that required we back off. Had a little trouble finding the start of the Lower Exum. It's the first major ridge you come to when you're heading horizontally along the Black Dike. If you get on the second ridge you can rap off the other side and scramble across a bench and climb the other side of the first pitch chimney (not recommended)

Routefinding on the Upper Exum was more difficult and not nearly as fun as the Lower Exum. The final ridge has great exposure and some good picture opportunities. The summit alternated between blue skies and clouds running over us. The rappels are straightforward and fairly easy to find. Scramble down and west and you should see them. There's one bolted anchor that you can do a double rope rappel from but you do a single rope rappel to get there. Not sure why the bolted anchor is right next to a perfectly good chockstone anchor.

All in all the Tetons are awesome.

Complete Exum ridge, is a logical route on such a summit. Sustained, never difficult, a lot of route finding... A great alpine adventure.

Up the Exum Ridge

Great route.