Ascent Notes for: Nutcracker - 5.8 popular Average Rating : 4.48/5

Lead P1-P2 and P3. Route was really good. (First ones on route at 10:30am after a rainy morning). Perhaps a little harder than I expected it to be. The crux of P4 would be pretty scary on lead but Eric just jumped from the left jug like it was nothing while I right heel hoked with a little bit of trouble. The view from the top of Manure PB is amazing.

Especially P1. Perfect and sustained lieback. Perhaps the most beautiful 5.8 I've ever done! Led P1 P2 P4.

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First climb in Yosemite Valley! It is amazing here! Leading Pitch 1 was awesome doing the layback slightly runout. The holds are slim on the steepest section here and you don’t want to take away a hold with pro. That said I probably could have placed some pro by my feet once I passed it. Pitch 2 was fine but super easy. The climbing gets to be 5-star again right after it though. Pitch 3 was amazing jamming up the crack system. The way we did it, we had a long Pitch 4 to right under the “crux.” Being 5’10” the crux was super easy and seemed like a 5.6 maybe 5.7 move… It would be much harder for a shorter person. Great top-out with an awesome view.

With Colin from Scotland! Onsighted p1-2 October 2010 (then stormed off), so I gave those leads to Colin. Then we swapped leads to finish. We had the route to ourselves that morning. Hot and greasy! Mantle move was exciting and scary for me. Due to the length and traversing nature of the crux pitch, I could see it being possible for the second to also sustain an ankle injury if they fell off the crux move (with rope stretch). I kept my second very tight at the start.

Overall an excellent climb but it was a clusterf*ck the day we ascended it. Erik led all pitches. Started 5.9 right variation to avoid some of the crowd.

bold mantle move on the last pitch took some care, (not a bad thing) and the climbing was stellar throughout. Took the 5.9 start, and it was a blast. Excellent morning out.

great climb with exhilerating mantel.

I would reccomend either the 5.9 start to the right or the 5.8 layback. Both are excellent and are the best pitches on the route. The mantle was fun too.

Loved, loved, loved this route. I did not find it hard to protect, and although the mantle is committing, just keep paying attention after you do it and you'll be fine. 3 dudes soloing the route reached the crux as we waited off to the side hanging on a tree belay. One of the dudes *almost* fell off that move because he wigged. Happily, he succeeded and they all topped out. I'm going to quote another poster here who said: "Sounds like the person who posted the route info was just pissed because he got his ass spanked on an easy route....Poser!This is a typical yosemite route with greasy fingers, wet sections in early season and lines of gumbies all the way to the top. It is by no means a choss pile, nor is it in any way runnout. If you don't like it, go back to sport climbing you sissy little gromit."