Ascent Notes for: Treiber's Deception -
Average Rating : 4.43/5
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Sugar and spice and everything nice
That phrase sums up the mix of moves on this line. I initially led this route ~1 year ago and it still feels hard in places! I would still rate the start at least 8+ (the shorter you are, the more committing and dangerous this move can prove to be). I used doubles on #1-3 (the second set I used to build my anchor) and a #4 is required to protect the final OW crack at the top, although it seemed like a #5 could possibly fit more snugly. I actually did bring up a #5 but chose to place it on the first OW crack (the #4 is too small there) because I felt more confident in it than the old, handmade bolt drilled at the lip of the overhang.
Very cool route, definitely a classic in the Phoenix area. Save a big cam for the last crack before the summit. I used Camalots #.4, (2) #1's, (2) #2's, #3, and a #4. And a small #4 stopper to help protect the step over to the main wall. Probably would have liked to have at least another #4 or larger Camalot for the last crack, but managed without it.
Very fun and very challenging for a 5.7!