Ascent Notes for: Bunny Slope - 5.8 Average Rating : 3.75/5

lead

best 5.8 out there

Loved it. I really like the rock here. There's a brand new 2007 Silverado pick up truck that was tossed into the canyon not too long ago b/c I was just here in May.These routes are fun and really high. Watch some of the bolts - a little shaky but all held just fine. Definitely use the newer anchors at the top!

while none of the moves were above 5.8 difficulty, the fact that it needs a nut at the bulge, is runnout to the second bolt and needs beta to know that you should climb the left crack, means that it will not be intuitive to a 5.8 leader. Sending a 5.8 climber up to lead this is unkind.

i think that this route was a total waste of time

Fun route. A stopper will help protect the move over the bulge above the first bolt.

I think i took the 5.11 way for this suposed 5.8. Even the first part past the bulge is scetchy on lead. I was fine till the last bolt before the anchors. That is were the 11 came out i think. You just have to foget about finding feet and match your feet with your hands. If you lead this it is a little hard to follow the crack, so be prepaired for a few tough moves. It's fun once you know how to do it. I'll get on it again.

rarely do i need to rest on anything less than 10a on top rope, and I had never taken on fall on lead. This changed that, very runout on the first to second bolt and i took a fall that strecthed to the ground.

No comment

I really didn't like this climb at all. I don't like how the bolts were placed and how far the reaches were, it could benifit from having a couple more bolts on some sketchy parts.