Ascent Notes for: Corkscrew -
Average Rating : 4.33/5
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One of the more interesting lines at the Gap. Gear is definitely PG, was helpful to use ball nutz.
I placed 4 ball nutz on this climb into parallel thin seams, 2 of which would have been otherwise unprotectable. P1 is delightful. First belay stance is adequate, but out of view/earshot of the double-overhang crux at the top. You may want to belay above the last left-facing corner on the face before the hangs to ease communications. I attempted the direct line at the crux, and greased out, going for a clean 10-15' fall w/rope stretch. I then went up and traversed right around the first crux hang, and topped out via the 5.7 variation.
Note you can avoid the "scary corner" (as the guide refers to it, by going right from the 1st belay, traversing around the arete to the face on the right, then up. The "scary corner" is poorly protected, and if you blew it, you'd fall right on your belayer. This is a much safer option.
Corkscrew is an apt name for this climb, as it winds around numerous corners and hangs. Climb ends right at a frequently used rap station with great views as you're standing at the lip of the Great Arch!
Booty alert, we left a YELLOW MASTER CAM in the crux overhang. I loaded it upon falling, and my second couldn't get it out. It's waiting for you....
As is typical at the gap loose rock abounds. P1 is very run out on 5.7 territory. However, if you can make it to the crux on P2 two great roofs await your attempt. Great climbing great moves crappy gear.
Witnessed by: John Jtalma