Routes : Reviews
Ascent Notes for: Absinthe of Mallet - 5.10c popular Average Rating : 4.30/5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes
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Red Point ascent by: mandrake on 2005-11-11
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Ascent Note
Good route. Nice variety. Personally, I liked Peacemaker better, but this is still definitely worth doing.
Added: 2005-11-11
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Hang Dog ascent by: sharp_end_soul on 2005-10-11
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Ascent Note
Party of 3 - myself w/xclimber and Geir the Norweigan Troll. Onsight p1, fell but continued p4, 2nd on the rest. Last pitch is super stiff for 5.9, I hangdogged. Thanks J and G!
Added: 2005-10-11
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Red Point ascent by: sed on 2005-10-08
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Ascent Note
ok i guess i did have to grab one cam at the crux but i had to reset the thing it was useless. anyway this climb was not as good as i expected. it's mostly slab and i expected more crack, this is not a crack line really at all and i clipped more bolts than pro. also the line is pretty contrived, at every belay i would have prefered to go a different direction that seemed to make more sense, following natural cracks. many of the belays were unecessarily awkward and while the crux slabs warranted the bolts there were bolts in other spots that really weren't necessary. the cave was the highlight and allowed us to escape from some heavy but short rain.
Added: 2005-10-08
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Red Point ascent by: roadman33 on 2005-01-03
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Ascent Note
Did this with my wife and friend meade. Route was good I'd say that you might want to be solid at the grade before heading up this one. Really a good route! Kinda has the feel of a mountain route.
Added: 2005-01-03
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Red Point ascent by: gds on 2004-05-25
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Ascent Note
Great route!
Added: 2004-05-25
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Onsight ascent by: scottd on 2004-03-07
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-03-07
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Flash ascent by: rock_diva on 2004-01-31
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Ascent Note
Took my first fall on gear -- and it held! Blue dmm camming device....
Was a lot of fun; windy and cold but good to be leading trad again.
Was a lot of fun; windy and cold but good to be leading trad again.
Witnessed by: Charee
Added: 2004-01-31
Added: 2004-01-31
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Red Point ascent by: menotyou on 2004-01-15
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Ascent Note
New finish is a bit scary.
Added: 2004-01-15
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Red Point ascent by: bighigaz on 2003-02-17
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Ascent Note
This was a fantastic route. Fletcher lead all but the first pitch, so thanks to him I was just climbing. We took the new finish up 300+ feet of slabs after breaking out right below the final chimney. What an amazing beautiful climb!
Witnessed by: Fletcher (Rope gun)
Added: 2003-02-17
Added: 2003-02-17
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Onsight ascent by: xclimber on 2003-01-25
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Ascent Note
Climbed this with Jeff Fasset, a local guide. Being the coward that I am I let Jeff lead the whole thing. We did it in 7 pitches with a 55 meter rope. The difficulties are generally short in duration, consisting of only a short series of four or five moves. The most sustained sections are on the first two pitches. After that there are still some interesting high-angle slab friction moves. At 5.9+ most people I have talked to think this is a typical Cochise climb rating, i.e. somewhat underrated for difficulty. Jeff said he would give it a .10a. We traversed over to the "Cave of the Screaming Little Man" which includes such amenities as a handmade stone bench. Trend leftward on the fourth (I think) pitch to locate it. The cave would provide good shelter for several climbers in a rainstorm, although using same during a lightning storm is ill advised. It would also be a nice spot for a little trysting... If you take the line left of the cave you can avoid the jumble of loose rocks on that pitch. Although this is technically on a different line ("No Time to Die?) it's recommended.
Despite some ominous looking clouds greying the entire sky when we arrived, the weather cleared and even though we experienced a bit of wind later in the day the conditions were generally benevolent (typical AZ winter weather). All-in-all a great route.
Despite some ominous looking clouds greying the entire sky when we arrived, the weather cleared and even though we experienced a bit of wind later in the day the conditions were generally benevolent (typical AZ winter weather). All-in-all a great route.
Witnessed by: Jeff Fasset
Added: 2003-01-25
Added: 2003-01-25