Ascent Notes for: Serpent - 5.10b Average Rating : 3.33/5

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Climbing the pocketed face directly left of Calypso III (and directly below/to the left of Calypso III's anchors) is maybe a 5.8 R. There are tunnels you can thread about 2/3rds of the way up, but they are not trustworthy for a fall. I don't know where the 5.10b rating comes from -- maybe the blanker section further left?

Weird, huh?

Might give it a lead next time i'm in the area.

best line seems straight up to the anchors, alleged pockets for tricams are all sandy and rounded, not sure how a tricam helps. this is almost X more than R. upper pocket area is very loose and sandy, not easy to find good feet when the rock is scrubbing away

Route description is a little off. This route is between Snake and Calypso III (not II).

On TR it's perfectly safe (duh) but on lead? Pfft!

No comment

The guidebook says that you can lead this 5.10bR with triams in small pockets. The way I see it, you're going to be soloing because even where you can set a tricam, the rock itself looks like it would break in the event of a leader fall. If you're not up to that kind of mental challenge (like me) I highly recommend leading a neighboring route and dropping a tr on this one.

Definetly a top rope for me. I enjoyed the technical crux.