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Ascent Notes for: Eagle Dance (A0) - 5.10c A0 Average Rating = 4.36/5 Average Rating : 4.36/5

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Eagle Dance

With DOWWW, his description is right on. We climbed the route in 4:50 and were in no way rushing. Rapping with a single 70 meter cord was without difficulty. I led the 5.10c pitch high up. Though filled with trepidation from accounts on climbers on previous sites, this also proved more enjoyable than terrifying. Aid ladder is slightly harder than Monkey Face at Smith Rock but it can be done singing bolt to bolt grabbing draws.

Added: 2010-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-01-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Eagle Dance

We combined the first two pitches, 5-6 and 7-8 for a total of 6 vs 9 to the final rap station. I led that first 5.10c and combined the aid pitch with that 5.10b pitch. Thought both were full value leads. We enjoyed that last pitch and did not fear that first bolt nor thought the pitch was hard to protect. I thought the existing bolts were well placed actually. Just take some double length slings for the aid and you will be set. The transition to free climbing to reach the anchor is awkward. The climbing after that is a bit pumpy as well if you are combining these pitches as I did. The best approach for this wall folks is to hike up the Painted Bowl walk off and then scramble up easy rock to the shoulder below Rainbow Buttress. Much quicker and direct than any other option. If you really think this approach is bad, don't visit the Canadian Rockies for rock routes.

Added: 2010-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: theclimbergirl on 2009-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First four pitches fantastic, rest is serious

Vegastradguy is sandbagging the pitch after the bolt ladder (or, I suppose, he could just be a vastly superior climber to the rest of us). Consensus is that pitch is the crux, and it was very hard compared to the lower "10c" "crux" pitch. If it's 10c, I'd call it "10c my ass." The climb did turn serious at/after the bolt ladder -- looser rock, uncomfortable belay ledges, and more delicate pro and climbing. All in all, it was a huge, good day out. Plan out your raps carefully; we rapped on two ropes and dealt with stuck rope issues on the way down.

Added: 2009-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2009-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good, not great.

rock quality degrades significantly after the 4th pitch- probably better to do the first 4, then fire Levitation for the ultimate day out! Also, my impression of the pitches were- .9, .10a, .10b, .9, .10a/b, .8/C0, .10b, .10c

Added: 2009-03-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2007-11-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a blast

Awesome route, did the "newer" approach, no problem. Nice solid climbing all through it. Last pitch, was very tired but good fingers meant lead without the pro, run it out to the finish
Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us.
Car to car 11.5 hours

Added: 2007-11-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clusterfuck on 2007-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good prep route for lev 29

has anybody freed the aid ladder I have heard that it is .12 it would only be a boulder problem- I should have tried

Added: 2007-08-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dominic7 on 2007-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

We took bivvy gear up the evening before -- there's a nice spot to crash near the base.

Added: 2007-05-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2003-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Pretty good

This route doesn't have a lot of variety, and it has an astonishing number of bolts. It provides fun elevation gain, though, and the views are great.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yetanotherdave on 1993-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun route

fun route - the approach is a pain, best to do it and levitation 29 on the same day.

Added: 2007-03-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2007-02-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent header is dumb!

With Jon Gleason.

Added: 2007-02-26

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