Ascent Notes for: Eagle Dance (A0) - 5.10c A0 Average Rating : 4.22/5

Vegastradguy is sandbagging the pitch after the bolt ladder (or, I suppose, he could just be a vastly superior climber to the rest of us). Consensus is that pitch is the crux, and it was very hard compared to the lower "10c" "crux" pitch. If it's 10c, I'd call it "10c my ass." The climb did turn serious at/after the bolt ladder -- looser rock, uncomfortable belay ledges, and more delicate pro and climbing. All in all, it was a huge, good day out. Plan out your raps carefully; we rapped on two ropes and dealt with stuck rope issues on the way down.

rock quality degrades significantly after the 4th pitch- probably better to do the first 4, then fire Levitation for the ultimate day out! Also, my impression of the pitches were- .9, .10a, .10b, .9, .10a/b, .8/C0, .10b, .10c

Awesome route, did the "newer" approach, no problem. Nice solid climbing all through it. Last pitch, was very tired but good fingers meant lead without the pro, run it out to the finish
Great day, David and Geir did Levitaton next to us.
Car to car 11.5 hours

has anybody freed the aid ladder I have heard that it is .12 it would only be a boulder problem- I should have tried

We took bivvy gear up the evening before -- there's a nice spot to crash near the base.

This route doesn't have a lot of variety, and it has an astonishing number of bolts. It provides fun elevation gain, though, and the views are great.

fun route - the approach is a pain, best to do it and levitation 29 on the same day.

With Jon Gleason.

A little headscratcher at the top. After the bolt ladder, there was a hard .10 pitch which was short at 4 bolts at about 70 feet long. The descriptions says it's 100' and 7 bolts. Looking up at the "next" pitch, I counted 7 or 8 new bolts going up and left for probably 120 to 150' to the next horizon line, presumably a ledge (the topo for the next-to-last pitch 8 had 4 bolts going up and left). But we'd left packs (and dogs!) at the bottom and didn't want to chance not having a rap anchor.

Tony and I block led the route in 10 or 11 pitches. Excellent route with some loose sections. The upper cruxes were a little stiff with some funky 5.10 crack above the aid section. Summited and walked off down the Oak Creek drainage which is one of, if not the most beautiful descent I have ever done. Surreal rainbow colored rock pools for at least two miles, Highly recommended despite the aching you might have in your legs when you get back to the car. Recommend getting a late exit permit and parking inside the loop road, the extra hike to the main road at the end of the day would SUCK. 13 hours car to car, 6 hours climbing time with lots of time for pictures and food.