Ascent Notes for: Shockley's Ceiling - 5.6 popular Average Rating : 4.36/5

climbed yesterday with beau. i led the first two pitches, which P2 was surprisingly really, really fun for the 5.5 grade. then i followed as Beau led the final money pitch. it is quite an awkward move, and i think rather difficult. even after watching him lead it, i have to say i was a bit intimidated crouching under the roof and staring up into the crack!! but i made it up fine, and overall really liked the climb a lot!!
the second crux in P3 is also rather challenging i thought.
i cant imagine how awkward it looks when people are climbing this naked!!

I'm now infamous w/ a couple of my partners for having 'humped' my way through the crux (glad I wasn't climbing it in the traditional style...); hope to return to this one & finish it in better form.

Pretty fun climb with an awful hanging belay after the first roof.

followed jitka

Just did this 26 years after the first time in 1983. It was just as enjoyable. Forgot the ceiling move sequence, and used a poor-style knee bar to clear the ceiling. Next time will be more smooth.

for 5.6. that famed roof was tough for a shorty (5'2) like me. the mini roof in the 4th pitch was no give-away either.

Lead all three pitches with no issue at all. Crux was not as hard as I recall it being on top rope. Fun climb, would do it again.

Led P1 & P3, liked the roof move on pitch 3!

I am 5'3 and the roof really wasn't that bad. Just reach up and go. I was actually more surprised at the finish, a small overhang to clear that wasn't exactly trivial.

Nice climb.

Shockley's Ceiling
#1 me
#2 pete
#3 scott